Thats what I couldnt get, was how you were going to get the sensor on the pipe that far up inside the exhaust and still get the wiring out?

You can try that method of using the pipe to 'channel' the exhaust to the o2 but I will warn you its going to affect the 'switching' of the sensor ALOT. Switching as in the changes in AFR the sensor see's and then shows you on the gauge.

You can look through dads thread (the ezstriper one posted on pg 1) and see I bought a 90* o2 extension to try.

Like this one here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/O2-Oxygen-Se...5c7fec&vxp=mtr

I took that and JB Welded some steel wool inside that I stole from what my gf uses to clean dishes with...still didnt work. Just that short distance caused the o2 to be pretty slow in switching which I didnt like at all, but at this time the tune was fairly close to it wasnt like I was worred about melting the motor down from being lean anyway (509 + M3 ProCharger).

Maybe it was slow b/c the exhaust had to do basically 2 90* turns in order to actually get to the sensor, I dont know.

What we really need, atleast on our setup, is an o2 sensor in one of the primary tubes 18" from the header flange on one of the out cylinders 1,7,2,or 8. We have a single plane intake with a 4150 throttle body so if any cylinders are going to be leaner than the other it would be them. Of course I dont think you could go back now and cut a hole in the outer tube, then drill a hole and weld a bung in the inner one and then weld a 'cap' per say back on the outer tube. This way it is WAAAAY away from water, the switching will be spot on, then tune gets spot on, and the world keeps going around.

If you do your pipe idea with the sensor on the outside end of the pipe, is once the pipe gets 'full of exhaust' per say, is there enough force to keep 'recycling' exhaust in/out of the pipe?

Why don't you just put the sensor on the tailpipe just after the header ?

Lightning warned me not to weld on the headers. I am going to try this idea first.

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I really dont think i will harm the sensor with this location!

My concern is how well the exhaust flows thru the pipe.

I will play with positioning until I find a location that will keep the inside of the sniffer pipe dry. Then i will move the tip of the pipe around and see how this effects my readings.

I can see how the O2 extension could really effect your readings. If that piece works the way I understand it from the picture I dont think you wouId get much flow over the sensor. I dont know much about O2 sensors but I think they like to have the exhaust flowing around them to be accurate.

I'm wondering how much effect the steel wool had on the sensor getting a timely and accurate reading.

i think you will have two issues, first being lack of decent exhaust flow to get accurate and reliable readings through that tube. 2nd, i bet that sensor will be stone cold out that far out your gonna be close to 30" from the cylinders if not more

I looked at a lot of articles about cars and bikes getting their O2 readings using a probe like this. One of the reasons they are using the long tube to go up the exhaust pipe is to ensure they are getting an accurate exhaust reading without outside air being introduced. If it works all the way back at the tailpipe of a car that is probably 8 feet away from the exhaust manifold, I don't see why the probe would run that much cooler 36 inches back from a marine header, unless the water being introduced into the exhaust flow is cooling it that much.

I guess the only way to know for sure is to try it. I'm interested in the results, because I'm running Lightnings with divorced collectors and no viable way to add an O2 bung.

Thank you for the feedback. I was wondering if the sensor needed to be warm or not.

How does does the sensor being too cold effect it?

Hadley, since you already have the tube bent up, why not just install it and start the motor to see what kind of exhaust flow you get from it. Zero cost and very little effort.