Budman I don't hear any wrenches turning when you're on OSO...

If you installed it and the .050" specs lined up along with the centerlines indicated on the card, yes, the cam is installed 4° advanced.

A 114° LSA cam installed with a measured 114° ECL and 114°ICL when installed is 0 adv/retard.
A 114° LSA cam installed with a measured 110 ICL and 118 ECL. when installed is at 4° advance.

DOT to DOT does not mean straight up.Some cams are ground with advance cause they doubt the installer. LOL.

Straight up means ICL and ECL is installed at same numeral.

Glad I had my conscience looking over my shoulder making sure I was working on the boat! :daz: :D

Had to break for lunch so I jumped on OSO for a few. Dropping it in tomorrow night.

in actuiality as the timing chain stretches the cam timing events falls back.that confuses a lot of people.many get crank&cam degreeing confused.

Bud, one last thing I can add is if you have any sort of exhaust leak at all it will create a vaccum and suck the water back. I think that's probably why he told you to use RTV at the joint...

I mentioned earlier that when I tested it with the tips installed, it stayed dry. I have to amend that to say that the last time I ran it over the weekend, it stalled on its own because I didn't notice that it was running out of gas (this thing eats gas at a fearsome rate. :) ) When I pulled the pipes that time, there was some water in them. My guess is that it took a big gulp as it sputtered to a stop. I'm going to take the tips in to the exhaust shop today to have them modified to have one little nozzle spraying some water angled back towards the tips. Going to close the top ports off, and add a bung on the top to dump the excess overboard. I'll let everyone know how it works out.

Sounds like a good idea but Keep enough to keep them cool still!

Yeah, that's the trick, figuring out how much. I don't think it will take all that much, and I might get some of the high temp silicone hose to connect to the tips for insurance. It sure doesn't need the torrent of water that is going through them now.

Still waiting someone to invent a jacketed (so cool exterior) totally dry stainless muffled exhaust that dumps water in at very end outside of boat that is a replacement fit for stock Merc setup.

So when is the season premier, the cheering section is waiting.....and hoping for success! :coolcowboy:

Thanks Buck - planning on Friday after work, or possibly Saturday if it rains. Motor was sat down in the boat last night. Going to hook everything up this evening and get the drive back on it. Exhaust shop is going to weld a 3 1/2" diameter pipe in just upstream of the water pipes that will flare out to the 4" inner pipe diameter. The idea is to let it act like a turbulator while also directing the water spray back to the tips. Going to let it extend out the back from the 4" inner an additional inch or so for good measure. I think that should solve my problem. I'll update when it happens. Thanks for the advice and encouragement guys.

Sounds like the great American craftsman is still alive and well. Sounds like a good idea good luck with the maiden voyage.

It's just interesting to me, you having to re-engineer your exhaust with that mild of cam. Please post pictures of what you do to your exhaust.

motor, I'm pretty baffled about it too - never dreamed it would come to this. I selected that cam because at first glance the specs led me to believe it would be ideal with my setup. There are folks running the Crane 731 cam even with silent choice systems, and that appears to be a more aggressive cam on paper. I might be worrying about nothing, but I've come this far on this build so I'm going to do my best to make sure it will last a while. I just want to put the hatch down for a while and enjoy the boat!

I'll post up some pictures when I get them back. Makes me wonder if this would help out the folks who were having issues with killing O2 sensors on their Lightnings.

I do not believe the boat exists. 10 different threads on engines but not one boat thread! We need proof of life on the boat! :lolhit:

You caught me - it's actually an aluminum jon-boat that I'm putting it in. That explains the need for the aluminum heads to keep weight down.

I think the old tub can be seen in the background of a couple of the shots. Definitely retro-ghetto-redneck. :D

After suffering through 18 pages of this dilemma we are entitled to a video soon!!!

HaHa, I'll have to borrow my daughter's GoPro cam.

The Fix is in...
 

Here is what we came up with. He let it run long so I could measure how much I want to cut off. Going to let it run about 1.75" past the original collector on top and slash cut it down to about 1" past on the bottom. He also gradually flared it from 3.5" up to the original 4" inner diameter for minimal disruption of flow. Might add a bung later to bleed off any excess water, but I think this will do a good job of diverting the water downstream and prevent it from getting sucked back in. Hopefully this will fix my problem.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...612_224020.jpg

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...612_224032.jpg

Back side - thought he did a nice job gradually flaring it out to meet the original pipe:

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...612_224044.jpg

I bet your kids are like "dad when is the boat gonna be done already!?" Lol. Good to see you might have it fixed. Looking forward to this video myself.

BUDMAN, i just read your entire thread from 2014 on reversion. i have the same problem.

what finally worked ????????????

BM, i got your reply about your reversion issues from my other thread. Just replying here.
I'm going to try the alum elbow tube extensions first as i think from all the info here that that may make the biggest difference. The Eddie Marine(similar to stock in way they are built) still dump the water into the exhaust just half a foot downstream of the elbow, and on top of the exh flow at that.

I can only go about 11" until i hit the internal Hardin Marine rubber flappers and i will have to cut the extension back a few inches from the flappers to try to get water mixed in to keep from burning them.

Water dump would be next, but i have a gut feeling that reversion would happen even with less water, just the nature of the exhaust pulses. Brackish water here on the gulf coast just kills the valve seats down so ANY moisture present is out of the question.



I will post results maybe this weekend after i try it.

the extensions bring up one more question.
SB talked about the slash cut exh tube, long piece on top. Can anyone give info on whether flat cut might be better if you luck out and get the right length?? especially since i only have about 11 inches total available to extend them. I was debating on trying it flat cut, then cutting the slash and run the boat again, but all that gets to be work and time.

It may be a known fact that slash is the way to go, period.

Any experts on this out there on this ?