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Old 09-23-2014 | 01:15 PM
  #31  
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For the record Mobil One V-twin 10w-40

Phos is 1200 ppm and Zinc is 1300 ppm

Not much there a couple of reasons one is this oil is recommended for a lot of bikes with Catalyst exhaust

Also Valvoline VR 1 Racing oil has a tad more than this V-twin 10w -40.

Mobil One V-Twin 20w-50
Phos 1600 ppm and Zinc 1750 ppm
Not as much as you think, some Hot Rodder oils has more than this. A lot of oils today have reduced Zinc and Phos.

Last edited by BUP; 09-23-2014 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 09-23-2014 | 11:20 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by BUP
Well I will most likely get hammered here about this but the bike oils are more shear stable but I was told not to use them outside of a wet clutch system. The source also sells bike oils as well and totally does not recommend them outside of that..
Don't see why anyone, especially here would hammer you for that statement. Most guys on OSO that use V-twin M1 do it for the ZDDP and anecdotal reasons alone. I will add that beyond mobil oils diesel line, pretty much all of their synthetic PCMO's aren't very shear stable at all compared to several other synthetic offerings out on the market.

I see guys tearing engines down here and other boating sites and claiming that V-twin is some miracle oil based on the naked eye.... These people never have 1 UOA, let alone the required "countless" required to "trend" and gather data. They also aren't running an identical engine on another oil to compare results. It's just a mess to put it plainly. Fortunately the BBC isn't a high shearing engine design, so most any oil, when changed at the proper interval will suffice.

Also, for those here that still believe ZDDP is required in high doses in order to keep flat tappets alive, the 7-900ppm contained in "most" motor oils is more than adequate. The break in period is the most critical timeframe in a flat tappets lifetime. More zinc isn't always better fwiw. The total formulation is what counts.
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Old 09-23-2014 | 11:52 PM
  #33  
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A lot of people up here use V-twin or did at one time per info from a huge thread posted. NOT SAYING the thread was bad or false info because that was not the case.

It did have good info but a lot of that info came from BITOG site for many years and past years. The poster put forth good info and a lot time so credit do to him in a huge way but was not an expert nor had the credentials of any oil related affiliation. It was touted that V-twin was the ticket. Anyways oil are opinions no matter who they are from. Different oils for different apps and all will work differently..

Last edited by BUP; 09-24-2014 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 09-24-2014 | 01:21 AM
  #34  
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FROM the oil additive thread the other day in the General Boating Discussion - 9/22/14 - post # 27.. Hopefully solid info on my part.



" the additive companies say yes to adding them to the oils and the oil companies most of them say no to adding extra additives to their already done oils.

IMO you are upsetting the balance of the oil brand the way it was engineered to perform, especially in the way of the millions of dollars, time of engineering & testing that has been done by some of the real oil manufacturers. Mobil One most likely has done and spent millions in engineering & testing their oil products.

Also over power oil by adding certain additives to the oil can deplete other additives that are designed to work how they were intended to in their balanced state. Example a calcium additive added to the oil can become over based and strip some of the anti wear additives away off the internal engine parts.

The same goes for over basing Phosphorus additives. Also a misconception is a ton of anti wear ZINC is better when in fact its not. Its all about balance and controlling oxidation along with controling heat & wear plus deposit control.

Balance of oil additives is the key along with proper maintenance and a properly tuned engine".

Last edited by BUP; 09-24-2014 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 09-24-2014 | 08:28 AM
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Going back to the oil change interval - I have been lucky to put 30 hours on my engine the past couple of years (I know - that sucks). If the recommended change interval is 50 hours, I would have to stretch it into next season. However, most articles about winterizing recommend changing the oil as part of the winterizing process to have fresh oil on the bearings and to lessen the opportunity for contaminants and combustion byproducts from possibly damaging the bearings. The voice in my head tells me to change the oil this winter. I'll probably listen to it (good thing I don't listen to all of the voices ), but just thought I would toss that out there. It's a no-brainer for those of you lucky enough to put 100+ hours on your boat every season.
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