need help with code 42 on V6
08-14-2014, 02:11 PM
#11
Banned
iTrader: (9)
Then I know who you are thru of the same people I know that you know. Your name is Steve S. and you are close to Lake Lanier. You did a very nice job on rigging the few Adrenalines that were made back then. If you need my phone # let me know and hopefully I can still help you out with your problem child boat or you can post your questions up here as well. take care & good talking with you up to this point. John
08-14-2014, 07:20 PM
#12
Hi there, your engine serial number comes up as an MERCRUISER - (262 TBI H.P. (1997) Serial No: 0K022619 Model No: 4262C14KS Parts Catalog No: 90-834987965 W/PS, SGLPCEX, W/RO, GEN+ BRAVO
Here is the correct parts catalog for this engine model for you,
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/selec..._nbr=834987965
If he's been throwing parts at it, did he happen to try a new ignition module, Item # 10, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...ion+Components
Hey BUP, Just curious if you had any thoughts or experience (maybe through some of your "GM" friends) about the quote below of the black vs yellow dot on the ignition control module. I was surprised to read that and don't recall experiencing it myself in the past.
Thanks!
Here is the correct parts catalog for this engine model for you,
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/selec..._nbr=834987965
If he's been throwing parts at it, did he happen to try a new ignition module, Item # 10, http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...ion+Components
Hey BUP, Just curious if you had any thoughts or experience (maybe through some of your "GM" friends) about the quote below of the black vs yellow dot on the ignition control module. I was surprised to read that and don't recall experiencing it myself in the past.
Thanks!
SOLUTION FOUND!
Short version: Ignition module (read more in the long version) and spark plug wire(s) was caput!
Long version: A lot of beer, headache, thousands of dollars on spare parts, lost summer days and a lot of ideas from certified mechanics have led to this day. This morning my father called me and said that my boat now runs approx. 70mph at. 4800rpm again.
As I have written in previous post mechanics could not find the fuel problem so they replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel tank hose, the nonreturn valve was removed and injection cleaner was used. They tried a portable fuel tank as well. No solution found. Second attempt was to replace the distribution cap and spark plugs. No solution found there either. At the third attempt they run a diagnostic without error codes. This was last season. This winter the injectors were pressure tested with good result and the rotor was changed. A couple of weeks ago the boat was in the water again with the same symptoms (read my first post).
Now a couple of days ago, with less hair on my head, I went to a local performance store for cars I never visited before to buy new spark plug wires. I explained to the clerk about my problem and he gave me One tip; check the Ignition module! He explained that the ignition module has a round small black label on it that turns yellow if it has™ gone bad. I later checked the ignition module, which is mounted with two screws under the distribution cap and rotor, and found a yellow dot on it (!). I bought a new module and installed it. It ran much better, approx. 4100rpm. I then changed the spark plugs wires too, and it hasn't run better!
I'm not sure but perhaps one of the spark plugs wires made the ignition module bad (?!) Anyhow, I hope this tip can help others in the future.
Oh! I found out that the clerk who gave me the tip about the ignition module is an 8 times European Pro Stock Champion.
Short version: Ignition module (read more in the long version) and spark plug wire(s) was caput!
Long version: A lot of beer, headache, thousands of dollars on spare parts, lost summer days and a lot of ideas from certified mechanics have led to this day. This morning my father called me and said that my boat now runs approx. 70mph at. 4800rpm again.
As I have written in previous post mechanics could not find the fuel problem so they replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel tank hose, the nonreturn valve was removed and injection cleaner was used. They tried a portable fuel tank as well. No solution found. Second attempt was to replace the distribution cap and spark plugs. No solution found there either. At the third attempt they run a diagnostic without error codes. This was last season. This winter the injectors were pressure tested with good result and the rotor was changed. A couple of weeks ago the boat was in the water again with the same symptoms (read my first post).
Now a couple of days ago, with less hair on my head, I went to a local performance store for cars I never visited before to buy new spark plug wires. I explained to the clerk about my problem and he gave me One tip; check the Ignition module! He explained that the ignition module has a round small black label on it that turns yellow if it has™ gone bad. I later checked the ignition module, which is mounted with two screws under the distribution cap and rotor, and found a yellow dot on it (!). I bought a new module and installed it. It ran much better, approx. 4100rpm. I then changed the spark plugs wires too, and it hasn't run better!
I'm not sure but perhaps one of the spark plugs wires made the ignition module bad (?!) Anyhow, I hope this tip can help others in the future.
Oh! I found out that the clerk who gave me the tip about the ignition module is an 8 times European Pro Stock Champion.
Code:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/635236-502-mpi-boat-won’t-run-on-high-rpms-3000-3400-rpm-maximum
08-17-2014, 07:33 PM
#13
Banned
iTrader: (9)
Sorry missed this one after the fact. Mercruiser and Volvo in which uses a GM part that comes from Singapore originally. What I know is that GM has the dot color matched up to a certain coil for different applications. Again its a GM thing. Just the other day was working a Volvo engine and it had a yellow / whitish dot and it was good to go (the EST module). Also had GM stamped on it.
The Sierra modules do not have any dot on them. I will ask this question to the GM engineers when I run into them at IBEX.
The Sierra modules do not have any dot on them. I will ask this question to the GM engineers when I run into them at IBEX.
Last edited by BUP; 08-17-2014 at 07:36 PM.
08-17-2014, 08:00 PM
#14
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Murrayville Georgia
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 0
Received 893 Likes
on
320 Posts
I did get a chance to run thru all the tests that Mercruiser calls for. in the end it says either bad module or bad connection. pulled the cap and the module. it is a cheap chinesium sorensen and the four pin connector is green with corrosion so next step is clean all the connections and swap the module and see what happens.
08-17-2014, 08:07 PM
#15
Banned
iTrader: (9)
that should do the trick as all MPI / EFI computer controlled engines need to have steady voltage at the proper level l whether its a 5 volt reference signal or a full 12 volts plus steady with no spikes. When you add resistance (corrosion, shorts, bad or loose or broken connections) the engine will not perform correctly and most likely set a fault code. let us know and thanks for the update.
08-18-2014, 08:45 PM
#16
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Murrayville Georgia
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 0
Received 893 Likes
on
320 Posts
ok so I had some time to mess with this thing. started it with the old module and checked timing. showed 5 degrees at idle and 21 at 3000. set it to service mode and it died. figured what the heck and changed module to a used GM one I had laying around. got it to run and set it to service mode and had to move the timing up to get it to run. set it to 8 degrees at an idle and pulled it out of service mode and timing jumped to around 15. raised rpm and it went to 36 but came down to 8 at idle. stays that way now whether in service or run mode. gave up for the moment at the sea pump locks up every time you shut it off and I have to take a pipe wrench and get it turning before I can start it again, the port riser is cold and the stbd is hot enough that you dont want to keep your hand on it. also this is the noisiest thing ever. not sure if it is u-joints, the sea pump or a loose rod bouncing around in it. I think by the time it has a new sea pump and exhaust that works he will be over the value of this thing.
08-18-2014, 10:39 PM
#17
set it to service mode and it died. got it to run and set it to service mode and had to move the timing up to get it to run. set it to 8 degrees at an idle and pulled it out of service mode and timing jumped to around 15. raised rpm and it went to 36 but came down to 8 at idle. stays that way now whether in service or run mode.
Here's an example for you if interested,
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/bullet/97/97_15.PDF
Hope this helps, good luck.
PS, Thanks BUP, looking forward to see if they know anything about the colored dots on the modules.
Last edited by lakematdude; 08-18-2014 at 10:41 PM.
08-19-2014, 08:08 AM
#18
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Murrayville Georgia
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 0
Received 893 Likes
on
320 Posts
it is a mefi 2 so that may be part of the problem as I did not raise it to 1800, it was hard enough getting it to start with the sea pump turning. they did mess with the timing before I got it so if the weather clears I will run it thru that procedure if it pump water.
08-19-2014, 09:48 AM
#19
Banned
iTrader: (9)
also motor needs to be at the correct operating temp before setting the timing and you will need to advance throttle to 1800 rpms before setting the timing. Also Mercruiser service manual # 18 under the fuel section # 5 will have all info for testing the module (IC) and setting the timing for the EST app. .
Last edited by BUP; 08-19-2014 at 09:52 AM.
