I hooked up the Crane knock retard using a TBV knock module (GM Module ~$63), a knock sensor and a relay.

From page 23 of this PDF it says that it always supplies 8-10volts and when Knock is present it removes voltage. You just use a relay that when the voltage is removed it will then source (-) ground to the brown wire on the Crane Ignition module. The Crane looks for ground to retard. Then I set how many °'s of timing I wanted to pull out. I believe I pull 8°'s. It worked with a test list and a little tap to the block. I don't believe I have seen detonation in any boating conditions yet. It at the least makes me feel a little safer.

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/16/16B4R2.PDF

With the crane box, I always used the Anson. Never used the Merc knock control. I have to check with Chris, to see if that would work on the Daytona. There's a retard switched wire, it's a 12v positive, I have no idea how that would work with that module. I was aware of the brown wire on the crane. Looks like that works with the merc module. Looking at my Daytona diagram, if you can use the + retard wire (Blue) it may work on the Merc Module. Good point Rookie..........

I believe you would just have to source 12v+ instead of - that I use. I used a simple 12v Bosch 5 prong relay. It switches aroun 6 volts.

Rookie,
Here's something to think about, when using a Merc knock module, the sensitivity of the parameters in the module can't be modified, even connecting to a Crane or Daytona unit. If it's being used on anything but, the stock engine in which it came off of there could be issues of the knock sensor, picking up piston noise and valve train noise unless you are able to monitor the ignition timing constantly.
Knock sensor, frequency and sensitivity can be set to different parameters as most of the ECMs of all the EFI systems. I would be more worried about the unit pulling out 16- 18 degrees of timing at times, due to a false knock of engine noise and moving the combustion out into the exhaust port, moving that flame travel across the exhaust side over the piston. At higher rpm the piston is reaching TDC and you are delaying spark timing.
This may not be your set-up, but not something I would want to chance on something else, rather than stock. If you are only pulling out small amounts of timing, not as big as a issue. That sensitivity of knock can change with load, and pull timing and you not even know, it unless you can see the timing. This timing can be data logged, by the Daytona box. I will say; the resolution in the Daytona, is no where near what ; the Holley EFI is , that's my experience on both. That also goes for the knock sensor parameters. I have been with Daytona, since they came out and was on the ground floor and was part of the input on what the marine guys wanted. I don't have all the answers for the Daytona, it's a excellent unit along with their other products.

Good info. I have wondered about how the aftermarket knock protection systems work. From what I vaguely remember when I was in training school for GM, was that knock protection systems on the oem engine/vehicles, were very specifically tuned, and engineered to the application. Different engines got different knock sensors, and so on. Each engine seemed to have its own frequency at which knock would occur, or not occur.

For the aftermarket systems, how does one go about setting up a knock calibration? I would imagine that knock would need to be induced when engines are installed in the boat, under load, when engines are coupled to the drivetrains? I know with my engines, stellings dry exhaust, supercharger noise, wind noise, I don't think I'd be able to hear spark knock ?

MER Mark, you bring up a concern I had with the knock systems. The last thing I would want is my ignition, or pcm, detecting false knock, and retarding the timing when my thottles are pinned to the dash, superheating the exhaust temperatures, and start melting the engines for no reason.

Had a blue MSD 6M box fail last week on Friday evening, so no Lake Havasu Desert Storm on Saturday, DARN! Ordered my Daytona Sensors CD-1 Marine system + 2 Bar MAP sensor Monday, shipped Tuesday and received it Thursday! Mounted components, crimped terminals as needed, removed extra wires from Deutsch connector that were not used and installed white plastic plugs that were provided to keep things watertight, installed new magnetic trigger, and locked out distributor advance today. Tomorrow I plan to fire up, set fixed timing, and then install the 3D timing map that I've created via my laptop. Will post pics, results, and any lessons learned after lake testing.

Thanks to Ken at Borowski Race Engines
http://borowskirace.com/
815-725-2727

myself,mild thunder and icdedppl got our daytona boxes from ken,they do all my machine work and engine dyno testing.very sharp group and local to me.the whipple,d engine on their website under marine is one of mine.

I set up steve with Borowski. They will be offering a discount to all oso members.

The Daytona Sensors dont have option for knock sensor but the box have some input we can using to retard timing with a adjustable seting. If you want knock protection you need to have an external knock sensor module with an output signal that you can conect into the Daytona box when the knock threshold is reach. I use the Phormula KS-4 for knock monitoring, he have a 0-5V output for data logging and a warning out when the max threshold seting is reach.

I realy love the Daytona Sensor box, i run my blower engine 468 B&M 250 @ 10 lbs boost water/meth with a 3D timing map that i have made with a 2 bar map sensor, i pull out timing as the boost increase, add no issue since 2 years.

Nice engine Mike! I saw that and wondered if it was an OSO member's engine...now I know that it is!