ask him to send you a new sender

I,
I just called and ordered 1 and the O-ring also.
Thanks for your input.
Dean

M,
I saw your post and for $14.XX I ordered that also.
Thanks,
Dean

Quick and easy way to check flow to cooler,touch test on the inlet hose. Not sure if it bypasses all or most when spring is closed, but if you're only seeing 185 after a run I'd think it's working.

The oil thermostat may not need to be open at 3500. Mine doesnt open till im running hard.

Check for a poor grounded oil filter pad to motor.

True , but his cooler never gets warm...so no hot oil passing thru...to warm it.

the 15 50 oil has a lot of friction modifiers and when they start to break down the pressure will drop.im no oil expert but i would say the straight 40 oil did not drop in pressure because it has very little friction modifiers.i also suspect that when the breakdown is happening the oil starts to foam up causing the drop in pressure.this is why i suggested the 20w50 and the brands i did.i have used these oil,s with great results.i will also add that todays multi weight racing oils are rated at about 200 degreese before they flow like 50 weight oil.also,when you shoot the oil cooler with the ir gun it is reading the water temp,not the oil temp,that is why it shows 85 deg,that is the incoming water temp.try one of the brands i suggested in 20w50 and let us know if the pressure drops with the same running conditions.this is just me thinking and i may be all wrong or maybe right on?

i might be wrong but i think the bulldog pan is a 10 qt unit.2 xtra qts will cause oil foaming.

Mike I think you were meaning to say viscosity index improvers (ie VII), not friction modifiers. Oils with a large spread in viscosity, and they usually tend not to be a high viscosity index synthetic base, will rely heavily on viscosity index improvers to perform at varying temps. A good quality synthetic will be devoid of viscosity index improvers and this be a shear stable oil. However, the BBC is a low shearing engine design and as such something else, probably temperature is to blame, not the oil itself, beyond it being an antiquated straight weight.

Redline synthetic is one of the most shear stable on the market and uses zero VII's. And regarding running straight weight, DO NOT DO IT! Straight weight oils are for racing only where a pan heater is used. They will only exacerbate wear in a marine Performace engine. With all of the quality synthetic multi grades, straight weights are 60's tech and should remain there. Just remember guys, not all "synthetics" are created equal regarding VII's.

A great article regarding VII's : http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...ndex-improvers

And I think Mike is spot on regarding your oil foam being possibly the culprit of windage. Modern motor oil doesn't tend to foam unless heavily contaminated with another fluid, or mechanical stirring, or windage is present. Please Note* Oil aeration(ie foaming) has been well documented to cause large increases in fluid temperatures. Food for thought. It might be the issue or a contributing factor, but it does happen.

In closing, I suppose the real question to ask is, do you need some fancy oil to cure an issue that's likely related solely to your oil t stat/ or crank windage causing excessive temps? Definitely move away from a straight weight, however any conventional oil in the 40wt range (multi grade) ie 10w-40,15w-40..will suffice. Let us know if the parts ordered cure your ills.