Gen 3 Cool Fuel Winterization?
10-13-2014, 09:37 AM
#1
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Gen 3 Cool Fuel Winterization?
I have never winterized my boat myself before so this will be my first time. I have the gen 3 cool fuel and am a bit confused. I know I need to run the cocktail from a separate gas tank. My question is, I have access to my tank through the floor. Should I hook the cocktail tank to the fuel line on the tank or on the cool fuel system? Also, afterwards I'm supposed to pull 2 fuel lines to drain any water. Which side are these hoses on? Do I need to relieve the fuel pressure or anything prior to removing hoses? Thanks, Chris.
10-13-2014, 10:47 AM
#2
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All gen III cool fuels need to be drained from cooling water for winterization. If yours is the earlier style without a blue drain plug (newer gen III has one drain plug but the one in the rear still did not drain the cool fuel completely hence Mercruiser went to the blue drain plug in the front of the cool fuel Gen III cool fuel for the past couple of years )
Anyways there was 2 different versions of Gen III cool fuel hose set up before the drain plug was added. The hoses on the back of the system need to come off - the first set up was with a bracket with a nut/ bolt in between the hoses (dead middle of bracket) that u loosen then that pulls away the bracket holding the 2 hoses. The next set up was you can pull the hoses off as there was no bracket set up. Next set up was the blue drain plug in the rear - that needs to be pulled and the hoses need to come off to drain completely. If your boat sits on a trailer it is best to pull what you have as far as a set up and then go jack the front of the boat up as high as you can go to help drain the cool fuel. Also lower the 2 hoses that you pulled off to the lowest point to help drain them as well.
If you have the cool fuel with the front drain plug then you only need to pull that to drain the cool fuel completely. Hope this makes sense. If not ask questions because many people and boat shops do not even know that it has to be drained. OEM Factory school has taught this for the past 6 or 7 years that I can remember.
Anyways there was 2 different versions of Gen III cool fuel hose set up before the drain plug was added. The hoses on the back of the system need to come off - the first set up was with a bracket with a nut/ bolt in between the hoses (dead middle of bracket) that u loosen then that pulls away the bracket holding the 2 hoses. The next set up was you can pull the hoses off as there was no bracket set up. Next set up was the blue drain plug in the rear - that needs to be pulled and the hoses need to come off to drain completely. If your boat sits on a trailer it is best to pull what you have as far as a set up and then go jack the front of the boat up as high as you can go to help drain the cool fuel. Also lower the 2 hoses that you pulled off to the lowest point to help drain them as well.
If you have the cool fuel with the front drain plug then you only need to pull that to drain the cool fuel completely. Hope this makes sense. If not ask questions because many people and boat shops do not even know that it has to be drained. OEM Factory school has taught this for the past 6 or 7 years that I can remember.
Last edited by BUP; 10-13-2014 at 10:53 AM.
10-13-2014, 12:04 PM
#3
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I would not worry much about running fuel cocktail for fogging purposes for a 6 month layup. Add Stabil to the tank and run it for a few minutes.
If anything, just pull off the fuel filter and dump in a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery oil into the filter and run it for 20 seconds.
Change fuel filter in the Spring.
If anything, just pull off the fuel filter and dump in a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery oil into the filter and run it for 20 seconds.
Change fuel filter in the Spring.
10-13-2014, 12:23 PM
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Gen III cool fuel does not have a spin on filter anywhere in the system. Its a fuel cell with a paper drop in filter and disc pad filter in the very bottom of the module. Anyways follow your fuel line from your gas tank to the inlet fuel barb motor side. Unhook that side of it and then hook up your portable gas tank with the soup mix. We call it soup mix FWIW.
I would run what Volvo recommends 50 to 1 gas to 2 stroke oil mix. & correct amount of fuel stabilizer. Merc is crazy way to much oil to gas mix at 10 to 1. Anyways the reason for the fog mix is also to protect the complete fuel system including fuel pumps, internals of the fuel injectors and any fuel module(s) from corrosion and aluminum oxide formation.
The Gen III cool fuel system has problems with internal corrosion and paint peeling plus if you have a 496 the fuel rails on the earlier engines would form corrosion internally very easy. It is wise to use a good oil base product in the fuel mix today for winterization because of the E-10 fuel and humid weather thru out layup.
Also do not forget to put the correct fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank as well. Aluminum oxide formation is a huge problem these days with fuel related parts and filter pad mounts. The 2 stroke oil mix helps decrease that formation.
I'm in a fresh water area and if I could post pics you would see what I'm talking about the common fuel related problems during & after lay up. Even the brass fuel barbs internally forming green corrosion from lay up. I understand not seeing it winterizing 1 or 2 boats per year but when you winterize 100 to 400 per year you will see the common problems.
I would run what Volvo recommends 50 to 1 gas to 2 stroke oil mix. & correct amount of fuel stabilizer. Merc is crazy way to much oil to gas mix at 10 to 1. Anyways the reason for the fog mix is also to protect the complete fuel system including fuel pumps, internals of the fuel injectors and any fuel module(s) from corrosion and aluminum oxide formation.
The Gen III cool fuel system has problems with internal corrosion and paint peeling plus if you have a 496 the fuel rails on the earlier engines would form corrosion internally very easy. It is wise to use a good oil base product in the fuel mix today for winterization because of the E-10 fuel and humid weather thru out layup.
Also do not forget to put the correct fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank as well. Aluminum oxide formation is a huge problem these days with fuel related parts and filter pad mounts. The 2 stroke oil mix helps decrease that formation.
I'm in a fresh water area and if I could post pics you would see what I'm talking about the common fuel related problems during & after lay up. Even the brass fuel barbs internally forming green corrosion from lay up. I understand not seeing it winterizing 1 or 2 boats per year but when you winterize 100 to 400 per year you will see the common problems.
Last edited by BUP; 10-13-2014 at 12:28 PM.
10-13-2014, 10:00 PM
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I believe mine has the single blue drain plug on the rear. So looking at the starboard side where my cool fuel is on my outlaw, the stern side should have the 2 water hoses and then the bow side would be where the fuel line enters from the tank which is what i want to disconnect and hook up the soup to?
