Yup, like these from CP.

http://www.cpperformance.com/c-500-f...s-returns.aspx

http://www.cpperformance.com/images/.../620-76300.jpg

that would be it.I made my own,but of course I have access to all the equipment.sometimes its just easier to buy.

I'd head for efi at that level.

OK, so I have my other thread going on where several folks are advising that I sh!tcan my electric pump and install a mechanical pump. I took off a mechanical Holley that looked identical to that six valve pump that MT posted. I know I will have to go with a composite or bronze tipped pushrod with my billet cam. Will I need to run a regulator with the six valve pump? Will #8 lines coming from the tank support 580ish HP?

FWIW, I was running that mechanical pump with a Q-jet on my 454. I'm guessing it just looks like the six valve and is not putting out the same pressure, because I don't think the needle and seat on a Q-jet will take much pressure before it blows off the seat. I'll have to pull it out of the attic and take a look at it.

No, I haven't yet. Was planning to take it out today, but work got in the way. Just thinking ahead in case.

Qjet handles decent psi.

I like mech pumps over electric, but, did you prove your electric wasn't keeping up ?

No, I haven't yet. Was planning to take it out yesterday, but work got in the way. Just thinking ahead in case.

WOW did not expect this, a lot of great info. Only now I have a lot more to think about, but I am leaning towards Teagues or Claysmith's pumps. Just have to figure out how to get it to fit between sea pump and block. I do have one more question, It seems that the lines between the tank and the carb have to be large, but the opening at the needle and seat is something like .030 so why do you need large lines to push through such a small opening. Just trying to understand.

Randy you pretty much answered your own question. You are pushing the fuel through the seat not pulling. The smaller the hose/ fittings and whatever b4 the bump create restrictions and reduce the efficiency of the pump. If you feed the pump with a small hose then have a larger hose on the outlet side of the pump you also reduce the efficiency of the pump because you have to fill the larger hose before the pump can make pressure to go through the seat. It's the same thing if you do a regulator b4 the carb you are pushing through a small oriface then filling a larger hose b4 you can make pressure to go through the seat. If you use a regulator b4 the carb (I use it after) all you need is -4 after the regulator. I've seen a 3000hp motor run with -6 after the regulator and -4 on the dyno. Believe it or not it made a hair more power with the -4. I think the largest regulator out there has a .125 hole in it.

Typical Holley N+S is .110. Many use up to .130". Remember times this by two since the Holley has two of them.

-6 to -8 into the carb is fine for 99% of Performance carb'd marine engines.

We don't have to fight high acceleration G's like automobiles, so that makes it easier on our fuel systems.

Edit in: We do average a ton more gph though. LOL.