I agree with ezstriper. I have never taken more than 30 secs. to prime even a dry pump. Run drill CCW. My guess is that is that the front plugs behind the timing gear were not put in. If any others were left out you would pump the pan dry into the bilge. I have NEVER put a motor in without 1st running it on the floor fully dressed. That's when any oil, fuel or water leaks or problems will show up. And I have done more than my share of builds for many people.

CCW won't work real well

on a bbc the oil pump turns clockwise.can you explain why you are saying to turn it ccw?

I believe he was commenting / referring to post #30: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...ml#post4239857
Where someone was trying to help come up with an idea to get oil into the pump (from the remote filter) to get oil into the pump.

That's all.

to draw the oil down the line and into the pump easier.
and I have done it in the wash tank and the pump would spit the fluid out the pick up.

What are you using for a drill? The only time I ever had a problem priming the oil pump was when I tried to use a small cordless drill and I really wasn't expecting it to work. Right after that I connected a corded 1/2 drill and it primed in 20-30 seconds. Even if any of the plugs were not installed, you will get back pressure on the drill once the pump gets oil. If the drill turns like it is not connected to anything then the pump isn't getting primed with oil.

Yeah I'm using a 1/2" corded and it's like there is not pressure there. Well not pressure like it should be

Maybe a heat lamp under the pan to warm and thin everything a bit and pull the line to the filter to ease back pressure , stick it in a container and give that a go to see if you are moving any oil.

I had one & only on time where I went to prime the oil system & didn't get oil. Pulled the pan and the pump.... took brand new pump apart, and it was the bypass/pressure plunger that was stuck open. Ya brand new pump and it had a little burr that held the plunger open, so when I tried to prime with a drill it just bypassed. If I was in your shoes... with motor already in the boat, I would try this... take and tap on the end of the primer tool... if its a stuck plunger as I had one time , maybe it will help. What do you have to loose?

TRUE. A dry pump will not create enough vacuum to lift the oil into it, in most cases. Too much air just leaks around the gears. Oil flows a very short distance directly from the pump to the oil filter. Therefore just remove the INCOMING LINE at your remote filter and dump oil down it. If you want turn the pump backwards a few turns to make sure the pump gears get well coated, though really shouldn't be necessary. Reconnect the line and prime. Drill will labor especially if you have a HV pump. Turn on the key and watch your gauge.

try taking the oil lines off at the filter and see what you get...

6 pages of good info here . Only time we had problem was when one of the guys was using a wimpy drill and the chuck was spinning on the primer tool shaft (was a gutted distributor so it was hard for him to notice )

On my gen6 502 the priming tool I bought was crap. The bottom of the priming tool passes through a bore which has two holes one coming from the oil pump the other leading to the lifer valley oil passages. If the bottom of the tool doesn't fill the bore properly oil can escape and won't feed the lifter valley passages. Primed the rods and crank but oil never made it to the rockers was blowing pass primeing tool and heading directly back to pan Make sure this isn't happening to you had to pull the timing cover off to figure that on out

Yeah I was running oil into the return line and running the pump ccw, it seemed to suck it all in. But then when I run it cw again it has alittle pressure but not a lot. ( more like then it did) but if I put all the hoses on and try priming and run it ccw it has all kinds of pressure from the drill bogging

Overfill it by about 6-8 quarts if you have a standard pan, this should cause oil to push up the pickup and fill the pump. Turn clockwise, you should be good. NOTE- it may take a little while for the oil to seep up into the pump. Make sure the oil is pulled back out before starting or bad stuff will happen.

man!! I only bought a gallon this morning!! Guess I'll have to go back!! Trying the overfilling now

Ok so I got 3 gallons in the pan. Is it normal while I'm going cw that it sounds like it's pumping air bubbles into the oil pan! Sounds like if you where blowing a straw into your drink

Thats probably the filter, lines and cooler purging the air , well...hopefully!

It was a threaded hole next to the original oil filter spot. Where the remote filter adapter goes now. It was next to it. Any idea what goes there?? I plugged it for now

Sounds like the oil pressure sensor hole for gauge, alarm, ecm,

I had my sensor on the side about where the oil filter went. Wasn't sure what the one on the bottom of the block was

Is this pic helpful ?

http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...t/100_0928.jpg

after over filling the engine with oil leave it sit for a few hours to give it time for the oil to seep into the pump..

What sense is that next to your oil pressure sensor? And is that a oil temp sensor on the side? (Not the knock sensor)

I believe that is a oil temp sender for the alarm system . http://www.mercruiserparts.com/showS...sp?pn=805605A1 http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...WARNING+SYSTEM Also oil temp showing below remote filter sandwich adapter on the pic .

should be low oil pressure light/buzzer

Ok I got Oil pressure on the gauge on the dash. It's deafly pumping through but it's not coming out the pushrods very well. Only one is dribbling out. Could it be from 25w-40 oil and its 25 degrees out?

most likely
have you been turning the motor over by hand to help it flow thru the lifter journals?is the oil coming out the line on the outside of the filter head?

How much pressure are you seeing on the gauge?

yes,that oil does not flow easily at 25 deg.as mentioned keep priming and turn crankshaft a little .

At 25*, that's like trying to push diff lube through those push rods, looks like your on the right track

Cools thanks guys!! I wasn't trying to blow my drill up so I wasn't going to fast, but it was at about 30psi!!

thats about all you will get with a drill...you should be good to go...

i use a 1/2 inch air drill and usually see 60+ while priming.

^^^^^^ Totally agree 100 % unless you have a issue of some sort.

If I held my drill wide open I bet it would hit 60psi! I was just worried about the drill

Drills are cheaper than motors

yep,cordless drill,s don,t like that kind of load.

The last stock small block I put together this fall hit 60 psi with no trouble on a cordless drill. My oil was at 65 degrees though, so your results may vary. I like to run the drill and spin the motor over by hand two revolutions while priming. May not make a bit of difference but doesn't cost more than a minute of time to do.

I will bet something is wrong. I have never had these problems. I have used cordless drills for years without ever having a problem building pressure and getting oil out of all of the pushrods. I am using a commercial ( contractor grade ) drill. And it does load the drill hard.
I usually run a full charged battery dead doing the full prime. Is there such a thing as a counter rotation oil pump?