502 mag mpi not priming oil??
 

I have a 95 merc 502 mag mpi. I've been trying to prime the oil system with my primer tool and drill. It will not prime itself, was, if I pull my filter off the inlet line into the filter with kind of pulse with air and alittle oil will come up, but barley anything... Any help??

make sure you did not connect the lines backwards.also,are you spinning the drill the correct direction.i only ask this because i don,t know you or how much knowledge you have.if you are holding the drill in your hand like a gun and looking at it from them backside the drill needs to turn clockwise.

is it a new pump?

drill spinning clockwise?

Got any more details on the engine? Recent rebuild? New oil pump? Why are you priming it now?

Haha yeah drill is spinning correct direction! Motor is a fresh rebuild never been fired up. Has the oil relocation bracket so the filter is up side down on top. I got the motor from a guy who just rebuilt it. Not sure about new pump, would have to look through his recites

And Ive been trying to find a picture of how all lines run to make sure they are right. But all the lines are pre bent so everything fit how it should have

did the builder prime the oil pump before he installed it.i hope it is something simple and not wrong size bearings or forgot to install gally plugs.

Did my 454 yesterday. Took forever, had an article (can't find right now) that said up to 20 minutes on bbc. Some wierd thing with some bbc's.
Mine took about 20-30 min before all rockers were flowing about 65+ deg. Outside.
Merry christmas and best of luck.

How much pressure should be on the shaft if you where spinning it by hand using the priming tool?

And i don't think he did prime the pump. I got it as a long block and finished the rest. I put first oil in motor

FROM A CAMERO FORUM DISCUSSING 502 OIL PRIMING.


Jeff,
Is the tool you purchased just a small shaft that spins the pump ? If so you will never get oil to the rockers. You need a tool that has a collar to simulate the bottom of the distributor housing. The distributor housing actually seals up one of the lifter galleys.

This is what the tool should look like:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...54806_-1_10455

you should feel the drill bog down when it starts to build pressure,,sounds like someone did not prime the pump..i would pull the oil pan and pull the oil pump..then get some lucas oil treatment(the motor honey looking stuff) and fill the oil pump with it.. install the pump get a gallon jug with oil in it and hang it over the pump with the pick up in the oil and try to prime the engine again..your drill should bog down rite away..

I was actually using a old distributor. But the shaft that ran through the middle had about 1/8 around it. So it wasn't a sealed fit

Man!!! The motor is already in the boat!! I don't know why I didn't even think of it when I was working on it on the stand!! Excited I guess..

if you remove the pump you can pour oil in it and turn it by hand,turn it both ways about 10 turns each way.you will feel it when the pump gears are coated with the oil.the stuff fixx mentioned will work but i just use oil.

i have something similar,,i took a old dist and machined off the gear on the end and the aluminum part that held the module and pu coil..it slides rite in and i bolt it down and then i use my 1/2'' milwaukee 120 v drill.. and it bogs it down pretty good around 60 psi..

a 95 engine would be a gen5 so don,t worry about the dist seal deal,it is not like the mark4 block.

i have a air powered oil sump that has a over head reel that i use to pump oil into cars.. your going to need to some how remove the oil filter and pump and force oil into the engine through the filter..when i worked for a gm dealer back in the mid 90's we had a guy that did the same thing except he started the engine and it had no pressure..he asked for help and i used over head oil pump the force oil through the block through the oil filter housing..a few pumps and the engine had oil pressure..

wow the engine is already in the boat,BUMMER.there is a way to prime the pump without removing the engine.the easiest way would be to overfill the engine with oil so the oil pump is totally submerged in oil,then use the priming tool and simply prime the pump.after you get pressure just suck out the xtra oil.when you are putting the priming tool into the pump are you sure it is engaging in the pump?

brought this up before remember Mike and on the Melling video about oil pumps - you have to make sure the oil pump is going to prime, so you need to self prime it with motor oil before installing it and this self primes it as well. Also what speed / rpm is your drill running at while priming ? Might need a more powerful drill. Also while priming sometimes I have seen to rotate the crank by hand / socket both at the sametime can start the oil priming process a lot easier and faster.

next if and when you get the oil to start priming - take your valve covers off and make sure you see oil rolling off every one of your valve train components. Just because you see pressure on the oil gauge does not mean that oil has made its way thru all the oil passages completely. You want both - to visually see it and have X amount of pressure on the gauge.

I agree you should get a little oil in the pump before install...But still spinning the pump with a drill with a proper drive/cut up old distributer,,,the oil system should prime ..Right?

I dunno motor, gear pumps do not like drawing head.

if the pump gears&housing is dry i don,t think the pump will suck oil and don,t turn it forever without oil in it or the pump could be damaged.

I'm not sure what I'm running my drill at, so my best bet is going to be overfill the pan?

I've always used a high speed drill first to get it started and switch to a big low speed once it's primed. never had any issues.

hopefully that does it,if not let us know.in fact let us know either way.

So do we think there is anyway of priming the pump WITHOUT pulling the motor back out?!:poopoo:

do as i explained with the engine in the boat.fill it until the pump is submerged in the oil,then prime the pump. after the pump primes drain the excess oil then continue with the priming tool for 5 minutes.stop and rotate crankshaft 90 deg at 1 minute intervals.

fill the line that feeds the outside of the filter w/ oil,,then spin your drill ccw.hopefully this will pull the oil into the pump.then try priming.

Ok, I'll give those a try tommarrow when I get home! Thanks guys

also,I've turned the priming tool by hand,just to make sure plumbing was right and oil would come out pretty easily from the line.when all hooked up,it will load a cordless drill pretty good.

Not sure if you mean back pressure once the pump is primed or the amount of pressure you are pushing down on the shaft as you attempt to prime? I have addressed both below.

As mentioned in an above members post, drill speed can definitely be a factor, primed or not. Have seen guys spin away with battery powered or slower drills to no avail. Then pop on a good high speed hand power-drill and have it kick quickly.

As far as pressure on the shaft. You won't have to ask, you will know as soon as it catches oils and starts to build pressure. The drill will bog very noticeably. If you mean down pressure on the drill, a comfortable amount to steady it and keep it engaged in the slot but do not drive it home with a ton of force or body weight behind it.

I have heard from others that by overfilling the crankcase you can solve a dry pump issue but have not done this myself.

If you end up lacking success..... besides some of the possible issues mentioned above, there is the possibility of a dropped pick up?.....Can be verified with a little flex shaft inspection cam via drain plug vs. removing engine.

Good luck.

I have never had to prime a melling pump. I've never had to prime a motor more than a minute maybe two max. Try to turn the motor over and prime it. Do this a couple times if your then not getting oil something is seriously wrong. If you have the lines hooked up backwards the engine will still prime it's just not going to filter the oil the right way.

Pull the plugs if you decide to do that to keep the load on the bearings as little as possible.

Pull out the oil sending unit and oil prime the motor thru that port with oil from an air operated unit or pump it with an heavy duty oil pump. Then I would make sure your oil level in the pan is correct and your oil filter is 100 % completely full of motor oil.

NOTE : Also make sure your oil filter is 100 % full as well if you continue with the drill / priming tool method. Take the oil filter off to check and fill it 100 % then see if that helps.

Next turn the motor over at the key switch with the spark plugs out and see if you get oil pressure at the gauge. While still cranking the motor over watch for oil moving in your valve train area.

For all 496's we oil prime thru the oil sending port with a CDI gear oil pump that is air actuated and of course its motor oil in the CDI gear oil pump not gear oil.

Here is the Melling vid - notice the drill size / speed and the priming tool used. Then watch for the oil priming for LS engines in vid as to what I mentioned to do at the oil sender port. . I talked to Melling about 4 years ago and asked do you really need to oil prime check the oil pump before installing it - they said yes for 2 reasons to make sure it pumps oil and it sure will help for oil priming the engine with the tool / drill method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOYLlr8uQ8k

Sounds like the oil pump pickup fell out or is at the wrong angle..did you weld it into the pump??

How much oil should I put into the pan to sumerge the pump you guys think??

as mentioned before be sure oil lines are not crossed...did that once and would not prime, if still won't something is wrong, missing galley plug(s) had that happen before as well...you should see oil pressure on gauge within 30 seconds or so, never had to prime a oil pump either...good luck