wow,,first off,you have the wrong retainer and lock combo in that first pic.

also,by the looks of those intake valves,,I'd use something other than the black silicone to seal the rocker studs in w/.

Looks like 7 degree retainers with 10 degree locks , also a few other things in those pictures that jump out as being wrong. Might want to consider bringing heads to a quailified shop. I'm not knocking you at all but there are so many things going wrong there that an experianced person would see right away. FYI , 226 lbs at the seat and close to 700 lbs open pressure is a lot For a mild Hyd roller cam

I agree on a shop.as for the cam,,its a mech roller
"Crane Cams - Part #:138091 Mechanical roller tappet / Grind Number:TR-252/400-2-10, Basic Operating RPM Range:3,500-7,000 / Duration at 050 inch Lift:252 int./262 exh. Advertised Duration: 290 int/300 exh, Lift .680/.708"

I agree. The rate on that spring is 655 pounds per inch, which ~ 140 PPI more than needed to control the dynamic mass of that valve train at an estimated 6300 RPM. They may have been spec in a race application in the period this boat was operated, however you will experience a durability penalty in a non-race environment.

Bob

Sutphen 30, billy boats, I think you guys missed something. The two pictures were just to show they used the +50 locks and the fact that there was no shim or anything under the exhaust spring in the heads I am copying. As for the condition of the head, let’s just say it spent a few decades in storage. Actually it’s a 109cc, 2.19/1.88 head, ported, polished and built by Crane for Carl Kiekhaefer/Mercury and was used on their 482 offshore race motor. The picture was taken as I was disassembling them for rebuild after they came out of storage so no it was not RTV on the studs just some gue from 40 years of sitting in a warehouse.
I’m sure today there is better everything that is made of unimtainum but that’s not what I’m doing. Just copying a motor that is already built and works made by someone that knows a whole lot more than me.

Bob, I have no clue about spring PPI numbers. All I know is I’m using the same exact part #’s as was in the original K motor and according to summit they are recommended by Crane http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-138091

Some wise advice was given in this thread by all. I would take that advice, do it properly, and forget about copying what someone else did 40 years ago. Just my opinion, and I'll probably get some hate mail for it. Good luck.

those are not +50 locks,or they are for the right retainer,there is a mismatch of parts there.when I use +/- 50 locks,you have to look at the valve stem real close to see the distance to the valve tip is not stock.as far as coping,I wouldn't,I'd do it the right way.I'd really like to see you get some spring locators in there,they're usually .060" thick.

And I am assuming based on what he posted, that is the setup he is currently running in his running 482, and wishing to copy? I think? I'm confused.

Guys, please don’t take me as being ungrateful in anyway and not that I mind much but we are way off track here. I really was interested if you would use a shim or something under a 200lb seat spring between it and the head? Do you always put something under your springs? For me smaller springs always had some sort of keeper around them and 1.5.. springs fit snug enough so I’m cool with that. I’ll be honest I’m pretty much a “recommended spring” on the cam card guy in most cases. Just recently started measuring spring heights and don’t/can’t measure much else in my tiny garage but I seem to manage and as long as the parts are what they say they are with a little luck we should be fine.
Again all I know is Crane recommends these springs for this cam still today even thought I may have bought the last cam on the market. Kiekhaefer had the exact down to the numbers set up and won offshore championships with these 482 motors (maybe, maybe not mine but some of the other of the 40 clones built). We are talking about a legend here. I wouldn’t care if he stuffed it full of Ford 4 cylinder parts that’s what I’m doing because it works. So much so that it’s too much for my 1959 Biese drag boat and has to come out before it breaks the boat in half and sinks it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIsKWPaf5iM&list=PLBcphYdOqWq6zvXgP9-pBqqvMds_l3sXY Being it works, is bad ass and is one of a kind history I’m not changing the clone motor from the original in any way if possible. You never know what they were thinking back then. Maybe their spring choice had something to do with them using domed pistons with closed heads. Cranes spring recommendation for the cam may have come from Kiekhaefer in the first place. Who knows? All I do know is it works and I’m not smart and rich enough to make it better at this point if ever. Two years ago the infamous Kiekhaefer 482 was just pages in a book. Restoring one and building a second to spec is all can do for now. If you want I can give you the parts list for the whole motor and you can go from there. But just like with my mark IV roller 454/496 stroker. It may not be the best by today’s standards but they were the best on the market 1969/70. For a 1967 race boat I’m good with it like they are. Not like it’s set up for day cruising.