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Old 06-09-2015, 06:32 AM
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Great Thread... so what did you do with the stakes in the rotaors holding the strips? i have the same thing on my 250. mine was send out and rebuilt 2 years before i bought the boat. maybe like 2003 by the previous owner when he rebuilt the motor.. He ran it for a year or 2 and i ran it for one summer. it has been on the shelf now for 7 or 8 years. going back together with the motor and thinking about this charger or selling this and going with a procharger set up.

any conclusions on this project ??
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Old 06-09-2015, 09:17 AM
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also when assemblying the blower snouts make sure you use some really sticky spline grease,,oil just dont cut it to keep lubed.
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Old 06-09-2015, 09:24 AM
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FIXX on the grease for the spline to coupler grease... wont the gear oil disolve and wash out the grease ? or does the level of the oil not come up that far?

It was mention earlier about the correct amount of oil is not when it comes out the frt cover hole, so what is the correct amount?
If i read correctly, It looks like we should be using 75-90 syn gear oil, is this correct?

thanks Bill.
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Old 06-10-2015, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 260Velocity
FIXX on the grease for the spline to coupler grease... wont the gear oil disolve and wash out the grease ? or does the level of the oil not come up that far?

It was mention earlier about the correct amount of oil is not when it comes out the frt cover hole, so what is the correct amount?
If i read correctly, It looks like we should be using 75-90 syn gear oil, is this correct?

thanks Bill.

gear has no protection when it comes to splines unless there is plastasizer which is micro pieces of pcv to keep the gears and splines from rubbing each other..merc 101 is good for splines..if the splines dead stop on the gear then the oil wont get in between the splines..the spline grease keeps a cushion between the splines and keeps them from wearing out.. ever see a prop shat that has not been greased..they eventually get beat to a point from no grease..
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:09 AM
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Bringing back an old thread...

I have a local guy here that will re-strip my blower for $250 (I bring the seal kit), but looking at the project, it doesn't appear to be that big of a thing to do. I like doing my own stuff where I can, and this doesn't seem too difficult. My questions:

1. How hard really? My blower other than the strips doesn't appear to have any other issues. It would just be seals and the strips.

2. Special tools?

3. How did you set up the strips once you had them in the rotors? Did you have to put them in a lathe to set the clearance, or was it good to go with the strips that you purchased.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 02-26-2016, 01:21 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by FIXX
also when assemblying the blower snouts make sure you use some really sticky spline grease,,oil just dont cut it to keep lubed.
I've used Merc 101, Merc Spline Grease and STP Engine treatment to dress the splines in the past.
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Old 02-26-2016, 03:34 PM
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I can't get the backlash/timing set on my gears. I've shimmed the crap out of it every which way.
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Old 02-26-2016, 08:39 PM
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That's not good.
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Old 02-27-2016, 07:21 AM
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To set timing you will need to shim one or the other rotor gears outward. Not both. The gears are angle cut so moving one outward from the other slightly adjust the rotor timing.
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Old 09-26-2016, 02:58 PM
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Hi, I just got a 39 scorpion with 250,and 454s plugs black and dirty,one motor fresh,had blown head gasket, one with 4 hrs.Help! how should I set this up?
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