ezstriper

I just got a canton, looks neat, high quality piece, have not installed yet, spring project, my oil temp never got to where needed to be..mine all in # 10

ICDEDPPL

iTrader: (1)

I`ll agree with ya, I experimented with my last warmed over Tyler Crockett 502`s , ran one motor with a Canton, the other without. Same thing with my current set up, took temp readings all over. Also put the stats in hot water to see how fast and when they open.. found some interesting unexpected results.

3pointstar

First let me say that I'm NO expert-- in fact it wasn't till later this past summer that I realized that I have an oil cooler on my stock 7.4 MPI -- Ok I'm not a mechanic.

However, there are a couple of questions and comments.

1. I think we all agree that oil works better once it is warmed up and of course you can get oil so hot that it starts degrading. But to do that it has got to get hotter than satan's nards in leather pants! I seriously doubt that any engine that is properly maintained will ever get close to that point- without something else breaking first.

2. My question is in the oil heat exchanger -- How efficient are these units - Lets face it even if you had 40F Lake Michigan water in April flowing thru a cooler I'm guessing that they wouldn't be much more than 25% efficient -- so lets assume that it gives you maybe a 20 degree drop in temperature. But that would be very short lived - since not all of the oil would continually be cooled to that degree before it was back in the engine. So how much really is being cooled and to what degree.

3. From reading a lot of posts at OSO most of the big guns are running synthetic oil thru these high horsepower engines -- Synthetic oil was made to take these higher temperatures, remain viscous without any loss of lubrication. So why really worry if you are running oil thru a cooler that doesn't cool the entire mass of oil that much -- the oil can take it

4. I can't agree more that ANY cooling of a fluid in an engine will help-- but are we splitting hairs here??

just thoughts and comments

3pointstar



3.

KAAMA

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=ICDEDPPL;4265789]I`ll agree with ya, I experimented with my last warmed over Tyler Crockett 502`s , ran one motor with a Canton, the other without. Same thing with my current set up, took temp readings all over. Also put the stats in hot water to see how fast and when they open.. found some interesting unexpected results.


[/QUOT]

The middle photo looks like those are the KE Thermofilters...yeah? If so, what temp thermostats are yours set for?....and what interesting unexpected results did you find? thanx

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

I used to not run oil thermostats or water stats. My oil temp barely ever hit 140* on lake michigan. Took forever to get the gauge to even move off its seat. I currently run the merc HP filter heads with built in oil stats. My oil temp is 180ish at cruise, and 210 at wot. Never goes above 210 even when held wot for miles. The idea is to bypass the cooler to build oil temp. Once the temp is reached, the cooler needs to be large enough to keep the temp under control on long wot runs. If you oil keeps getting hotter and hotter the longer you keep the throttles down, your cooler is simply too small, or your pistons are glowing red.

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

or both.

KAAMA

iTrader: (1)

It looks like there is a newer design oil thermostat that came out in the last few years made by Hardin Marine, but the jury is still out on how well it really works. I guess the KE "Thermofilter" is no longer made from what I can see. My current thermostats in my KE's HP-6 thermofilters are at 212*.

I will need to discuss this with my builder as I am wondering if I should get the 180* thermostats for the KE Thermofilters---but if they seem to leak or allow a little or some oil into the oil cooler anyway, then perhaps my 212* are fine...especially in Lake Michigan water temps. I always thought the 212* were good for at least allowing the engine to burn off any condensation in the engine.

Does anyone know where or who sells the KE "Thermofilter" style HP-6 thermostats?

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

Hey mark. I think they all allow a bit of oil to flow thru the coolers at all times to prevent air pockets.

As far as needing to get oil to 212 to burn off condensation, I'm not sure its totally necessary. While 212 is boiling for water, at 180 you will still evaporate moisture. Think of a soup pot of water on the stove. At room temp it will stay full for days. Heat it to 175 and it will evaporate rather quickly.

It takes me all of 5500+ rpm for a bit to see my temp hit 210. Most days my oil temps get to 180 and that's it for the day. My oil stays clean and no creamy goo in the breathers or dipstick. I do not run water thermostats.

How's the boat coming along Mark!??

Knot 4 Me

Got a buddy with the Harden setup on new 489's. Works like a champ. Downside is depending on access you would have to pull the motor if you had a desire to change to tstat or if it stuck open/closed.

vintage chromoly

iTrader: (3)

That raises a great point.
Is the 180 degree t-stat the desired one for a marine application?
I assumed a 215 or so would be required to get sufficient heat in the oil and burn off condensation.
Maybe I'm assuming incorrectly. Would it be a bad thing if the oil temp hovered around 200 while running with a 180 stat?

What temp are you guys running?