Ring end gaps
02-25-2015 | 10:05 AM
#111
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,439
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From: yorkville,il
different than a marine engine,yes but why do they do this?TO FIGHT DETONATION!that pro stock engine is run on the ragged edge from the hit of the throttle to the end of the run.
02-25-2015 | 12:35 PM
#114
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,598
Likes: 1,168
From: taxachusetts
and run a good radiator cap to bring the pressure up in the system,,it raises the boiling point of the antifreeze same w/ our engines,,get the pressure up or the back of cylinders heads will develope steam pockets.Steam w/ not registrar temp on a sensor.
02-26-2015 | 01:38 PM
#115
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,295
Likes: 1,457
From: Virginia Beach
Guys, lots of good information has been provided in this thread. Yes, it did go off topic a little, but for the most part it's all relative. It's quite obvious that we have some very smart people here on this forum.
I'm happy with the answers and advice I received regarding the ring gaps for my set up. I'm definitely headed in the right direction.
I'm also very interested in the discussion that has unfolded regarding temperature extremes within the block, and whether to use thermostats, restrictors, circulating pumps vs crossovers, etc. This is all relevant to me and my set up (though probably with a little more detail than most would care for... still good stuff imo), and it's given me a lot to think on.
Just to add... In the beginning of my project, I was planning to use the aftermarket iron heads that I have, but have since decided on going with aluminum. I did this for a number of reasons one of which was to combat any detonation issues that the iron heads would have brought about. I have also decided to go with a crossover mainly for the reason that I don't think I can find a thermostat housing that would work with the blower set up... I feel the crossover is a necessary evil in this case.
The above probably doesn't add much to the overall discussion... just giving a rather casual update as well as saying thanks to everyone that's participated (or read and gained some knowledge) in this thread.
I'm happy with the answers and advice I received regarding the ring gaps for my set up. I'm definitely headed in the right direction.
I'm also very interested in the discussion that has unfolded regarding temperature extremes within the block, and whether to use thermostats, restrictors, circulating pumps vs crossovers, etc. This is all relevant to me and my set up (though probably with a little more detail than most would care for... still good stuff imo), and it's given me a lot to think on.
Just to add... In the beginning of my project, I was planning to use the aftermarket iron heads that I have, but have since decided on going with aluminum. I did this for a number of reasons one of which was to combat any detonation issues that the iron heads would have brought about. I have also decided to go with a crossover mainly for the reason that I don't think I can find a thermostat housing that would work with the blower set up... I feel the crossover is a necessary evil in this case.
The above probably doesn't add much to the overall discussion... just giving a rather casual update as well as saying thanks to everyone that's participated (or read and gained some knowledge) in this thread.
03-12-2015 | 05:15 PM
#116
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 73
From: chicago
We are comparing two entirely different scenarios.
On the engine that is starting cold at -20º F, and rising to say 180º,, the components will all rise uniformly relative to each other. The key is uniformly.Their initial and running tolerances are designed based upon the various material and their relative rate of expansion.
In the marine application, where you may experience, a 100º difference in running temp from front to rear cylinders, it's obvious you may want to rethink your initial clearances (ring end gap and piston to wall).
There is no editorializing on anyone's part on the way Tom, or anyone else for that matter chooses to configure the cooling system. Just data.
Bob
On the engine that is starting cold at -20º F, and rising to say 180º,, the components will all rise uniformly relative to each other. The key is uniformly.Their initial and running tolerances are designed based upon the various material and their relative rate of expansion.
In the marine application, where you may experience, a 100º difference in running temp from front to rear cylinders, it's obvious you may want to rethink your initial clearances (ring end gap and piston to wall).
There is no editorializing on anyone's part on the way Tom, or anyone else for that matter chooses to configure the cooling system. Just data.
Bob
I am curious, this particular setup that had 100* higher water temps at the REAR of the block, compared to the front of the block, what size block, and what generation block was this? Is there any data to view on this topic?
I myself, have never witnessed water temperatures 100 degrees hotter water or coolant at the rear of the block, EXCEPT, when someone installed the incorrect head gasket on the block, with the front water passages opened on the gasket, when they should have been blocked, allowing water to flow right in from the water pump holes, right out the thermostat outlet. I've seen guys overheat, seize valves, not once, not twice, but 3 times, blamed it on cooling problems, when in fact, they had the incorrect head gasket on it all along. Was all too common on Gen 5 and 6 engines.
I am just trying to get data, and also, understand, how, a circulating pump, evens out the water temperature in the block, better than a crossover? I'm also not understanding how, my vehicle, warms up much more uniformly, than a boats engine, to operating temp?
