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Old 03-05-2015 | 02:54 PM
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hi, to re-hijack this thread again; perf dist 8-pin dynamodule. is that an EST stand-alone module like the merc voyager, with advance curve built-in? or is that a standard module like all efi setups where the ecm decides the ignition curve? and, if it is like the voyager, can it be installed in a car-truck dist to convert it to marine carb system?
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Old 03-05-2015 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by dereknkathy
hi, to re-hijack this thread again; perf dist 8-pin dynamodule. is that an EST stand-alone module like the merc voyager, with advance curve built-in? or is that a standard module like all efi setups where the ecm decides the ignition curve? and, if it is like the voyager, can it be installed in a car-truck dist to convert it to marine carb system?
Yes the ecm decide's the dist timing and can be setup to run a striaght carb system. But that's a Volvo setup not a merc, Merc use's T-bolt 5 and 99 more than probably a mefi 1 or 2 that pdf i posted will walk you thru the diag tree step by step.
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Old 03-05-2015 | 04:34 PM
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i am scratch-building a gen 6 454 setup into a 79 pantera. orig diz is points...and replacing centrifugal HEI setup in 2000 crownline i scratch-built last year with early 90's alpha setup. and i have 4 of these late HEI distributors. this is 2 different people getting info out of this thread.
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Old 03-05-2015 | 07:34 PM
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Alright, found the EST Modules with the 22° advance in by 2800RPM.

GM 10482830 (supercedes 16139399 - sometimes referred to as 'the 399' by FI tuners using EST))
Delco D1965A
Mallory Marine 9-29800


The GM#10482830, by documentation, is said to be the Merc#811637 + Merc #811637T + OMC#3854003. In case this helps.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by SB; 03-06-2015 at 05:30 AM.
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Old 03-05-2015 | 09:16 PM
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Below is a tbolt mefi file and a trouble shooting tree that should take you home. What you have not said or have been asked do you have a alarm or are you aware you have a alarm and does it report...2 when the key is on do you hear the fuel pump's pressurize you should hear them whine as they are pressuriung the system...Last but not least did you check the lanyard for continuty with a meter. You might not have a spark issue but a fuel cutoff issue also or both.

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/bullet/99/99_02.PDF

Delco est wiring for reference...

EFI setup



And carbed



Check that GRY tachometer lead
is not shorted to ground (-) at the
tachometer or within the harness
No spark
Is battery good?
Is distributor clamping screw tight?
Check all terminal connections at
distributor, ignition coil and ECM.
No Spark
With key switch in RUN position,
check if electric fuel pump is run- 0 volts or
fuel pump
Check key switch,
um run battery, engine
ning. Check for 12 volts at positive
(+) terminal on ignition coil.
not running.
and instrument
wiring harness.
Unplug distributor WHT/RED bullet
connector from the harness. Check 0 Volts for 12 volts on lead coming form
harness.
Check 10A fuse
and lead.
12 Volts
Reconnect distributor WHT/RED
bullet connector to harness. Install
a Spark Gap Tester from ignition Spark at
Ignition system is
coil tower to ground (-). Crank
engine over with key switch.
S ark coil.
good.
No spark at
coil.
Replace sensor on inside of
distributor.
No spark at
coil.
Replace ignition

Last edited by Pliant; 03-05-2015 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 03-05-2015 | 09:59 PM
  #56  
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Says he already changed coil and ignition sensor to OEM brand new.

No shift interrupt switch as its a Bravo III

I will add once again go back to POST 29 & 48 and do all the checks that I mentioned plus already said the rest from the Service Bulletin including the 10 amp fuse in which has not been checked.

The only thing I did not mention was the ignition switch and or under dash connections -

Last edited by BUP; 03-05-2015 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 03-08-2015 | 08:31 PM
  #57  
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Thanks again for everyone's help! Update, checked both batteries 12.8 & 12.9 volts, checked all fuses on motor as explained, grounded the Sensor ground wire with direct wire to the battery ground, checked the switch and checked the lanyard switch again, monitored the tach. while turning over. It was not moving. checked for spark again. nothing. checked for voltage at coil it was correct. After all of this I replaced the coil again with the original coil, engine started correctly. The new coil is not working.
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Old 03-08-2015 | 08:41 PM
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well don't you just love that!
I guess you're running again so thats the main thing.
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Old 03-08-2015 | 08:48 PM
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Can you tell me where you bought your coil from and was it OEM Mercruiser or Seirra or something online ? THANKS Also where did you buy the rest of your ignition parts from ?

I will give everyone an OEM part that could be bad right out of the box - this has been fixed last year or said to be. Water pressure sensor (Merc)

And old stock of HVS distributor caps (flat caps) - 5 & 7 crossfiring was a huge problem - right out of the box - bad caps. This problem has been fixed across the board but again old stock on the shelves. Also old stock gen VII Mercruiser Impellers. This problem has been fixed but again still a few on the shelf..

Last edited by BUP; 03-08-2015 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 03-08-2015 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BoatnBrad
Thanks again for everyone's help! Update, checked both batteries 12.8 & 12.9 volts, checked all fuses on motor as explained, grounded the Sensor ground wire with direct wire to the battery ground, checked the switch and checked the lanyard switch again, monitored the tach. while turning over. It was not moving. checked for spark again. nothing. checked for voltage at coil it was correct. After all of this I replaced the coil again with the original coil, engine started correctly. The new coil is not working.
Check that GRY tachometer lead
is not shorted to ground (-) at the
tachometer or within the harness
No spark

I hate to ask but did you inspect the tach ground.
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