I run my boat as hard as I safely can but I have never run 30 miles pinned. The speeds are too extreme to run that long into cruiser wakes or channels with other boats or wave runners.

You just need to find a bigger lake....

I have a new theory, as long as everything is set up correctly and good parts are used 1.7hp/CI is the limit to a reliable roots blown set up. Above that you better have all your ducks in a row.
Everything I`ve changed so far was for reliability not more power.
4% underdriven and 6psi right now. I could easily turn up the boost and make a close to 1000hp but I`d rather boat all summer and going 10 mph slower on the top end is fine with me.

My best boating day is getting on the trailer knowing that I don't have to wrench on the boat before I can go back out. I totally agree, tune it to live!

My buddys 353 (Lake Effect on OSO)

509CI GM Forged 502 cranks, Manley H beam, JE pistons
MErc 525 cams
GM Performance Edelbrock aluminum heads
HP500 intakes I think 850 blow through carbs
7 PSI M-1 Pro chargers

he never dynoed but boat runs 105 and a best of 107, so must be about 800 or so, used every single weekend and ran pretty hard.... it seems to live, good building and MONITORING is everything to keep engines alive.

NOT missing part or all of the season is priceless....

What's the old saying. Fast, reliable, cheap. Pick 2!!

I once rowed a boat half way across my lake. My back gave out. You just cant win.

Full force that combo is basically what I .putting together right now. But in us the blower

Could you guys add if the motor was home built, local performance shop built, or (brand name, ie teague, mercury, sterling, zul, chief, etc) built? I have allways been curious about this. I have come to the conclusion that either you go mild, or go to a big name shop for performance for reliability. This is why I went with outboards. This thread is changing my mind a bit though.