oil cooler thermostat line routing
 

using a canton thermostat along with a remote filter, assuming I want to run thru filter 1st, what is the best way to plumb in the thermostat ? thanks Rob

I was waiting to see if you got a confirmed answer however I would say your correct however in reality would it really make much difference? I'm not 100% certain. I suppose the oil could perhaps be a little hotter before the filter especially with larger capacity filters?? With that said would you be better off before or after? Personally I would still say after.

I have the cooler after the filter now...figured hot oil filtered better, with the thermostat you would have to after I'm thinking

it would be interesting to try and monitor how much the t-stat fully opens.

It's going to change states at whatever temp it's rated at. It's a 2 position device.

Two position device meaning slightly opened or opened correct? I realize stat opens at 212 or 215 however it would still be interesting to see how often and under what conditions the stat opens. Oil temp gauges would be one way of knowing I suppose.

Filter will have to be the first item receiving oil from the motor or the last item before going back into motor, that way you don't bypass the filter.

So, the question is: do you want the filter first in case you have motor problems sometime and don't want crap to end up in the oil cooler, or, do you want filter last in case some solder/slag/ metal or etc come off inside cooler and get in the engine.

Most set ups I see is filter first.

Filter last. So every piece of crap that is in a fitting, hose or oil cooler get caught before going into the motor. If the filter was first & say the oil cooler starts coming apart, there is no filter to catch it & gets pumped into engine. Also run oil flow opposite of water flow in the cooler.


Need a drawing SB?..... :asskiss:

Wouldn't it be nice if it was just a cooler that took a sh-t and the filter caught it and saved the engine. That would be nice but when the engine grenades be sure and blow those nasty sludge turds out of the cooler, lines, stat, etc. Amazing how some have have overlooked such. Either way you look at it when something lets loose it rarely turns out to be a good day...

The likelihood of an oil cooler with no moving parts "coming apart" is remote.

Mine is going after the filters on the recommendation of a hydraulic engineer at barnes. In my case, oil comes from the remote tank, through the pump, through the filters, through the t-stat controlled cooler ( after it reaches 212), into the engine, out the scavanging ports in the pan, back through the pump and back to the tank.

Also, I'd think flushing and trying to save a cooler and lines that came from an engine that had metal in the oil is a bad idea.

Vintage is correct; also hotter oil is easier to get through the filter (less pressure & flow loss).

Amen

So tell me, you would rather filter hoses & cooler, then filter say a $15,000 engine.



If I ever had a engine grenade I would never be using the oiling system & cooler again, in the trash.

But if you build good chit , it don't break. Lesson #1

Nope. No drawing. Your talking to someone who runs his water seperator / filter after the fuel pump (+ 1 final filter at entrance of carb) for all the same reasons you mention. Plus, More flow and still seperates the water just fine.

I simply mentioned you could do it either way, most install it before.

'Most' doesn't mean it's the defenitive way.

way your doing it,,you have to throw the cooler away,never gonna get it clean.as for the line,your being a little dramatic,,parts clean and air and lines are as clean as when you build them,,but maybe your not good at building them(or no confidence) because you want filter last.
me,filter first in all the builds,catch all the crap and save your cooler and line.and yes,I cut a $750 cooler open because I thought like you.thank god I didn't have to replace it at my cost.
and like you,I have very few blow ups,but,chit happens.

Not dramatic sweety.. just stirring up chit :nutkick


U ain't nothing but a HO anyways

You ever get your answer regarding plumbing in the t-stat?

Yes.

Filter - Tstat - Oil cooler.

See diagram - https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...PDF/22-480.pdf

Engine out to filter in and then the diagram.

As Mountainmadboy stated - make sure the oil cooler is routed so oil goes against water flow in cooler. Helps reduce temps a little more.

Our 40' skater came that way & I ripped it all out. Replumbed it they way we prefer.

So what happens when the oil thermostat breaks/ comes apart.. does it have to go all the way through the engine again to get to the filter?:popcorn:

Honestly I feel it's what ever an individual prefers and feels right by. We all have our own way of doing certain things and that's ok. Many would argue with me all day long cause I'm not even running coolers at all however it's only twin 600 hp 496's. That's only cause I rarely see temps over 225 and have to run long and hard to achieve that.