using a canton thermostat along with a remote filter, assuming I want to run thru filter 1st, what is the best way to plumb in the thermostat ? thanks Rob

I was waiting to see if you got a confirmed answer however I would say your correct however in reality would it really make much difference? I'm not 100% certain. I suppose the oil could perhaps be a little hotter before the filter especially with larger capacity filters?? With that said would you be better off before or after? Personally I would still say after.

I have the cooler after the filter now...figured hot oil filtered better, with the thermostat you would have to after I'm thinking

it would be interesting to try and monitor how much the t-stat fully opens.

It's going to change states at whatever temp it's rated at. It's a 2 position device.

Two position device meaning slightly opened or opened correct? I realize stat opens at 212 or 215 however it would still be interesting to see how often and under what conditions the stat opens. Oil temp gauges would be one way of knowing I suppose.

Filter will have to be the first item receiving oil from the motor or the last item before going back into motor, that way you don't bypass the filter.

So, the question is: do you want the filter first in case you have motor problems sometime and don't want crap to end up in the oil cooler, or, do you want filter last in case some solder/slag/ metal or etc come off inside cooler and get in the engine.

Most set ups I see is filter first.

Filter last. So every piece of crap that is in a fitting, hose or oil cooler get caught before going into the motor. If the filter was first & say the oil cooler starts coming apart, there is no filter to catch it & gets pumped into engine. Also run oil flow opposite of water flow in the cooler.


Need a drawing SB?.....

Wouldn't it be nice if it was just a cooler that took a sh-t and the filter caught it and saved the engine. That would be nice but when the engine grenades be sure and blow those nasty sludge turds out of the cooler, lines, stat, etc. Amazing how some have have overlooked such. Either way you look at it when something lets loose it rarely turns out to be a good day...

The likelihood of an oil cooler with no moving parts "coming apart" is remote.

Mine is going after the filters on the recommendation of a hydraulic engineer at barnes. In my case, oil comes from the remote tank, through the pump, through the filters, through the t-stat controlled cooler ( after it reaches 212), into the engine, out the scavanging ports in the pan, back through the pump and back to the tank.

Also, I'd think flushing and trying to save a cooler and lines that came from an engine that had metal in the oil is a bad idea.