getting rid of the vst tank
05-03-2015 | 11:22 AM
#2
Registered
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 1
From: OK CIty, OK
You need a new pump, new filter, new regulator, a relay kit, and some hose/fittings.
The VST uses 5/8 inverted flare fittings, you can buy adapters from that connection to AN-6.
Mark the two fuel lines from the rail, one is inlet and one is return, then throw away the VST. Also ditch the mechanical pump.
Install your new pump low in the bilge, preferably below tank but that's not always feasible. Install a 10 micron filter after the pump to ensure the injectors stay clean/clear. Plumb the outlet of the filter to the inlet of the fuel rail. I used -6AN stainless braided hose, if I were to do it again, I'd use a soft braid (Arequip Startlight -6, to be exact). Now you have fuel to the rail. Plumb a regulator into the return line. You can use a Hardin setup for quick and easy, or use an aeromotive for a much better reg. I have the hardin, and you couldn't pay me for it, it sucks. The outlet of the reg needs to return to somewhere upstream of pump suction, preferably to the tank. Set your regulator to 36 psi for stock engines.
Mount a 12v relay to power your new pump and use the VST wires as your relay's signal. Use 12-14ga to power your pump. Get to a good ground where you can, and get back to the battery through a fuse or breaker.
That should get you where you need to go.
The VST uses 5/8 inverted flare fittings, you can buy adapters from that connection to AN-6.
Mark the two fuel lines from the rail, one is inlet and one is return, then throw away the VST. Also ditch the mechanical pump.
Install your new pump low in the bilge, preferably below tank but that's not always feasible. Install a 10 micron filter after the pump to ensure the injectors stay clean/clear. Plumb the outlet of the filter to the inlet of the fuel rail. I used -6AN stainless braided hose, if I were to do it again, I'd use a soft braid (Arequip Startlight -6, to be exact). Now you have fuel to the rail. Plumb a regulator into the return line. You can use a Hardin setup for quick and easy, or use an aeromotive for a much better reg. I have the hardin, and you couldn't pay me for it, it sucks. The outlet of the reg needs to return to somewhere upstream of pump suction, preferably to the tank. Set your regulator to 36 psi for stock engines.
Mount a 12v relay to power your new pump and use the VST wires as your relay's signal. Use 12-14ga to power your pump. Get to a good ground where you can, and get back to the battery through a fuse or breaker.
That should get you where you need to go.
05-04-2015 | 08:31 AM
#4
Registered
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 809
Likes: 0
From: Rapid City SD
You need a new pump, new filter, new regulator, a relay kit, and some hose/fittings.
The VST uses 5/8 inverted flare fittings, you can buy adapters from that connection to AN-6.
Mark the two fuel lines from the rail, one is inlet and one is return, then throw away the VST. Also ditch the mechanical pump.
Install your new pump low in the bilge, preferably below tank but that's not always feasible. Install a 10 micron filter after the pump to ensure the injectors stay clean/clear. Plumb the outlet of the filter to the inlet of the fuel rail. I used -6AN stainless braided hose, if I were to do it again, I'd use a soft braid (Arequip Startlight -6, to be exact). Now you have fuel to the rail. Plumb a regulator into the return line. You can use a Hardin setup for quick and easy, or use an aeromotive for a much better reg. I have the hardin, and you couldn't pay me for it, it sucks. The outlet of the reg needs to return to somewhere upstream of pump suction, preferably to the tank. Set your regulator to 36 psi for stock engines.
Mount a 12v relay to power your new pump and use the VST wires as your relay's signal. Use 12-14ga to power your pump. Get to a good ground where you can, and get back to the battery through a fuse or breaker.
That should get you where you need to go.
The VST uses 5/8 inverted flare fittings, you can buy adapters from that connection to AN-6.
Mark the two fuel lines from the rail, one is inlet and one is return, then throw away the VST. Also ditch the mechanical pump.
Install your new pump low in the bilge, preferably below tank but that's not always feasible. Install a 10 micron filter after the pump to ensure the injectors stay clean/clear. Plumb the outlet of the filter to the inlet of the fuel rail. I used -6AN stainless braided hose, if I were to do it again, I'd use a soft braid (Arequip Startlight -6, to be exact). Now you have fuel to the rail. Plumb a regulator into the return line. You can use a Hardin setup for quick and easy, or use an aeromotive for a much better reg. I have the hardin, and you couldn't pay me for it, it sucks. The outlet of the reg needs to return to somewhere upstream of pump suction, preferably to the tank. Set your regulator to 36 psi for stock engines.
Mount a 12v relay to power your new pump and use the VST wires as your relay's signal. Use 12-14ga to power your pump. Get to a good ground where you can, and get back to the battery through a fuse or breaker.
That should get you where you need to go.
That is pretty much the ingredients I used. Aeromotive 1000 pump and regulator. If your motor is stock you can probably get a smaller pump. Aeroquip AQP Socketless hose and connectors. I got a dual relay pack and wired into battery power, & trigger off the VST harness.
05-04-2015 | 09:02 AM
#5
Registered
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 1
From: OK CIty, OK
+1,
That is pretty much the ingredients I used. Aeromotive 1000 pump and regulator. If your motor is stock you can probably get a smaller pump. Aeroquip AQP Socketless hose and connectors. I got a dual relay pack and wired into battery power, & trigger off the VST harness.
That is pretty much the ingredients I used. Aeromotive 1000 pump and regulator. If your motor is stock you can probably get a smaller pump. Aeroquip AQP Socketless hose and connectors. I got a dual relay pack and wired into battery power, & trigger off the VST harness.
