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Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 4310674)
My buddy bill was saying same thing, that's probably what I will do for now, you of all people know how much money I got to fix the actual issue here...
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Yes water pressure gauges going in as I stated in another post, might have missed it but yes I will be using gauges
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Good move Tim, water pressure is extremely important.
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I will share my experience with by-pass crossovers. The best water crossover is the one from Stainless Marine, the thermostat housing is cast polished stainless, that has a diverter in which keeps the cold water from confusing the thermostat with cold water. That cold water will, make the thermostat close early NOT ALLOWING, the water to flow the hot water from the last 2 cylinders on each bank. You will never see a high temp reading on the gauge, allowing the rear cylinders to overheat, causing the cylinder head to expand beyond the quench of the gasket.
I experienced; a confused thermostat on a 750 hp 540 NA I was told drill 5-7 holes in thermostat. This issue cost me much time and $$$$, the end result of the cold water hitting the top of the thermostat, wasn't a enjoyable journey, for my clients lost boating time and my time and money to correct the issue. the end result was a dropped valve seat and a bent valve. After repairs were made, a thermo-heat gun determined, 300 + degrees in back cylinders. determining what was going on. The only bypass I us now if needed is from Jerry @ Stainless Marine. |
Originally Posted by MER Performance
(Post 4311039)
I will share my experience with by-pass crossovers. The best water crossover is the one from Stainless Marine, the thermostat housing is cast polished stainless, that has a diverter in which keeps the cold water from confusing the thermostat with cold water. That cold water will, make the thermostat close early NOT ALLOWING, the water to flow the hot water from the last 2 cylinders on each bank. You will never see a high temp reading on the gauge, allowing the rear cylinders to overheat, causing the cylinder head to expand beyond the quench of the gasket.
I experienced; a confused thermostat on a 750 hp 540 NA I was told drill 5-7 holes in thermostat. This issue cost me much time and $$$$, the end result of the cold water hitting the top of the thermostat, wasn't a enjoyable journey, for my clients lost boating time and my time and money to correct the issue. the end result was a dropped valve seat and a bent valve. After repairs were made, a thermo-heat gun determined, 300 + degrees in back cylinders. determining what was going on. The only bypass I us now if needed is from Jerry @ Stainless Marine. |
Good info, where does one find this specific thermostat housing with the diverter? Stainless Marine's site isnt working. Is there a part # on it?
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I think CP PERFORMANCE sells them part# 520-sm 295w.
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Mine are stainless marine but old system, I will try donlol around later when I am on computer...
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Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 4311063)
I will try donlol around later when I am on computer...
I'm glad to here you are not on fukitol: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LCAKPEm55b...00/fukitol.jpg |
I have not read all the posts but would this help whomever
https://www.cpperformance.com/Instru...540-160200.pdf |
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