Originally Posted by drpete3 (Post 4347109)

So lets see a pic of the clean oil cooler. What did you do to clean it?

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4347053)

35 Fountain with bravo's should have plenty of room in the bilge for strainers. Here is a picture of a 35 with Speedmaster drives, and transmissions, which move the engines forward about a foot. Still plenty of room.

Originally Posted by bcfountain (Post 4347087)

hahaha,,,,and I thought I was the only one who had that problem.not to mention how many times I have gouged my back on it.

Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 4347117)

Isn't the fire extinguisher a little too low to put out a fire [ATTACH=CONFIG]544608[/ATTACH]

Originally Posted by drpete3 (Post 4347109)

So lets see a pic of the clean oil cooler. What did you do to clean it?

Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 4343364)

So how do you burn off moisture..Water boils @ 212 F. seems way too cool for me. So if your running 170 ish and 190 ish you must have some white sludge somewhere maybe under the valve covers. An engine trying to generate heat with no oil or water thermostats will condensate.

Originally Posted by offshorexcursion (Post 4347808)

I hear what your saying but from personal expierence not all engines condensate. I agree it's something to consider though.

There are professional Marine engine builders who have recommended running cooler temps then some OSO members think you need to "burn off condensation"

Edit:

I'm way behind on this thread! Lol

Lots of good posts on here though

Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 4342428)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]544161[/ATTACH]The oil temp sensor is located on the remote oil filter. I believe that is before the cooler. Looking at the arrow on the remote oil filter housing, that oil line comes from the block, feeds the filter then heads toward the oil cooler then out of the cooler and back to the block. I am more concerned about the cruising 3400-3600 rpm oil temps more than WOT. I do more cruising than wot and if i run at wot its not for very long. After the last wot run I really didn't look at the temp, I was more concerned what was in front of me but i can say after stopping and idling for a few minutes the gauge was down around 200-210. No alarms or buzzers. I'll have to take note of the oil temps the next time i open her up.

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4342532)

How about a larger oil cooler. 240 degrees at constant cruise, is too hot in my opinion.

What temperature water thermostat are you using?

Originally Posted by adk61 (Post 4347971)

you likely wont see much more that a 20 degree jump from there if he's at 3500 to 4k rpm... its loaded for bear at that point...

Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 4342852)

We seem to be getting off the subject here..Back to oil temps...I made custom fittings between the exhaust manifolds and the risers allowing me to dump some water overboard thru 2 fittings on each side of the boat. The hose size was 3/8". When that setup was connected my oil temp was 20 degrees less and my water pressure was 5-6 lbs less. reason being, the relief of water pressure allows the water to go thru the cooler faster removing more heat BUT...repeat...My Stainless risers are running a bit warmer at idle due to the reduction of water going thru them...so my question is. Is it ok for the SS risers to run warm at idle??...If so i will re-install the dump lines

Originally Posted by adk61 (Post 4347976)

why not install a 10 PSI check valve on those dumps so water will cool when idling around and dump when you're beating on it!!

Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 4346884)

I just wanted to say thanks to all for the help on my oil temp issue. After Running last weekend i decided to remove the end caps on my coolers. I was shocked at my findings. I can't believe the oil wasn't showing hotter and the engine water temp was at normal 152. SAND<PEBBLES>SEAWEED CLOGGED IN BOTH COOLERS.
Curious about the oil temps after cleaning

[ATTACH=CONFIG]544596[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]544597[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]544598[/ATTACH]

Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 4347981)

Sounds like a great idea anyway. Who makes a water relief like this at a low psi

Originally Posted by adk61 (Post 4347988)

Teague Marine has adjustable units... I use them on my superchillers [ATTACH=CONFIG]544650[/ATTACH] not sure if you can blow these up on your computer.. but they are the brass units that are screwed into the front side dump of the chillers... these work awesome and I'm sure they would help you if overall system pressure is a concern for you... 15-16psi wouldn't bother me, IMO

however... if you want to run them, take a close look at the STBD engine, you'll see the unit in the chiller right beside the idler pulley to the left of the blower belt...

Originally Posted by SB (Post 4346898)

Glad to see it looks like you found your problem !



You don't have to boil water (ie: to turn it it turn to steam) to remove itself from oil, or other things for that matter.

Evaporation can happen at much lower temps. However, yeh, the hotter it is, the faster it will.

Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 4348023)

I agree BUT how long do you want that condensation to stay inside. It will begin to rust parts like valve springs, push rods, etc. Look at the post in this thread on page 11 from ICDEDPPL.

Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL (Post 4347985)

Recently I switched out my 13 plate bellhousing coolers to 8 plate to help build oil temp.
The evaporation on MY motors was not fast enough below 212* .

It still takes 5 minutes + around 4500rpm to get the oil temp above 212* in Lake Michigan but at least I can get there now.

Ultimately, I`ve learned that the water temp is a large factor in condensation. I can run around warmer Lake Erie or ROTO at 180* oil temps all day without any condensation.
Unfortunately building water temp in my motors is next to impossible.

Originally Posted by Cole2534 (Post 4347872)

I agree excursion, and I can provide the numbers to back it up tomorrow.

Originally Posted by ezstriper (Post 4348157)

seeing how we are shifting a bit here, I have been experimenting with breather setups on my procharger setup, found what works well for me, run 5/8 hoses out of each valve cover to individual puke tanks, vented to procharger inlet bell. What I noticed was all the water being caught in the tanks, and no oil...just info..

Originally Posted by Cole2534 (Post 4348228)

So what you're seeing there is the vapor is swept from the valve covers at some velocity through the hoses and the speed keeps the water in vapor phase. Then the water suddenly slows as it reaches the puke tank, vapor condenses into droplets and falls out.

Add a baffle in there and you'll see even more fall out.

I work in the natural gas industry, this stuff is my bread and butter. :)

Originally Posted by 35fountain (Post 4348370)

I was told by Nickerson Performance never hook up a pcv valve to a marine motor unless you want to blow it up. Actually when i first got my boat there was one in each valve cover and a hose connecting to a vacuum port underneath each carb. I did remove them when Nickerson built me carbs and flowed them to my engine specs. I really don't understand why a pcv valve would do harm to a marine engine unless pulling unburned fumes and moisture back into the intake to get re-burned could lean out the mixture.