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Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 4343103)
I haven't installed any bungs in Lightening headers, but I've talked to a buddy that has done a few. The biggest problem he had was dealing with the steel inner and SS outer pipes. It required a very specific filler rod from what I remember. I think they also offer a full SS header. That would be much easier to deal with.
I don't see any reason that you can't put a bung in a Lightening header and keep the sensor dry. If it is installed just at the beginning of the collector, there is no reason that it shouldn't work. If there is water getting there, it's also going in the engine. Eddie |
I was curious if the inside of the pipes were getting purged prior to welding also...
Originally Posted by 260Velocity
(Post 4343978)
Eddie you are correct, welding Stainless to Carbon requires a 309 filler rod. Then i use 316L on everything else. Looks good and the only thing i would do different is to purge the area between the pipes (the area you pressure test in) with Argon. You will need another flow meter and line to do this. Just lightly purge this area for a minute prior to welding to remove all the oxygen from that cavity. You may have to play with the Flow as too much will mess with ur arc.Tape off the opposite side that your argon is being feed from and place a small hole in the tape to let the argon flow through and out going by the welded area. When done ur weld on the inside will look like the outside weld with no SUGAR or porosity and be a much better weld. Leave the purge on while welding in the Bung too this helps that weld become a better weld too.
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I did my dry pipes the same way. I might also recommend that you run a M18 x 1.5 tap in the sensor bung threads. I had to do that to mine because the bung warped a little bit.
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Awesome how to Eddie.
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has anyone done this to the stock cast iron 502 risers?
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Originally Posted by kl2oo0
(Post 4344291)
has anyone done this to the stock cast iron 502 risers?
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Originally Posted by ezstriper
(Post 4344127)
its the silent choice header of theirs is the issue, as the water is dumped way up in the collector, putting it in a tube worked for us...
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Originally Posted by Budman II
(Post 4344298)
I would think that welding a bung into cast iron would be difficult at best. I think using one of the sandwich adapters that go between the riser and the manifold with provisions for a bung would be the way to go, so long as it does not throw off the alignment of your exhaust hoses too much.
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In reference to back purging the water jacket, I've considered it a few times. I would need to get another bottle of Argon and a reg to do it, but I'm sure it would help. I was watching a show just about a week ago where they were welding SS exhaust tubing and where purging it. It really got me thinking. Although there is no real stress on these welds, I'm sure it certainly can't hurt. I'll look into it. Like I said, by no means do I consider myself a welder. I can glue 2 pieces together, so any and all advice from guys more knowledgeable then myself is certainly welcome. That's what this forum is for (at least that's what it's suppose to be for). I really wanted to show the method of installing them, so anything helpful advice that anyone can add is great.
As for stock exhaust, the only way that I know to do them is to add the spacer block. I can't possibly see how you could drill and weld into a stock cast iron manifold. I have used the spacers in the past and they work great. I actually made a few for some Volvo apps. I couldn't find a commercially available one for a Volvo so I was forced to make it. They are avail for Mercruiser engines though. If I could buy one, I would because they are a pain in the ass to make. lol Eddie |
Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 4344347)
In reference to back purging the water jacket, I've considered it a few times. I would need to get another bottle of Argon and a reg to do it, but I'm sure it would help.
Eddie |
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