Decipher beeps on Merc.
#1
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Decipher beeps on Merc.
I have 2 beeps going off in 10 min or so intervals, Is there a way to find out what that means without going to a dealer ? ..Thanks
#2
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Buy a scanner and scan the engine is the only way without going to the marina or a tech
2 beeps every 10 min...??? Never heard of that. There is a solid beep witch means "o-chit, then 2 beeps every min witch means something isn't happy
Merc doesn't use morse code HAHA
2 beeps every 10 min...??? Never heard of that. There is a solid beep witch means "o-chit, then 2 beeps every min witch means something isn't happy
Merc doesn't use morse code HAHA
Last edited by 92nsx; 08-21-2015 at 08:39 AM.
#3
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Seawater pump low psi
Engine coolant overheat
Engine oil low psi
Port or starboard exhaust manifold temp overheat
Drive oil reservoir low
Engine overspeed
Get it scanned and go from there..
#4
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2 beeps is or can be critical enough for reasons to take your boat to a dealer who knows about Mercruiser ECM 555 / PCM 555 to get it fixed properly
Take your pick I am throwing a freebie out
all sensors that the computer gets its inputs from that are related to the 2 beep fault code warnings that are for ECM 555 and PCM 555
also 2 beeps per minute can be any opens shorts within the circuits.
DTS apps do not have IAC sensor nor IAC muffler So do you have DTS ?
IAC are the most common problem and in due time a bad IAC can or will knock out your PCM. Can happen at any given time or even catch on fire and or melt things. FYI
Drive lube bottle is not 2 beeps its intermittent continuous beeps meaning beep beep beep beep beep and so on
Engine oil low is not 2 beeps but a continuous horn fault and so are the following as well.
engine overspeed continuous horn
engine coolant overheat continuous horn
EMCT in which is exhaust manifold coolant temp overheat is continuous horn plus others faults carry continuous horn as well.
Just saying as an FYI so no offense to anyone but just straightening out what the horn signals mean as you can get some misinformed info on the net.
Take your pick I am throwing a freebie out
all sensors that the computer gets its inputs from that are related to the 2 beep fault code warnings that are for ECM 555 and PCM 555
also 2 beeps per minute can be any opens shorts within the circuits.
DTS apps do not have IAC sensor nor IAC muffler So do you have DTS ?
IAC are the most common problem and in due time a bad IAC can or will knock out your PCM. Can happen at any given time or even catch on fire and or melt things. FYI
Drive lube bottle is not 2 beeps its intermittent continuous beeps meaning beep beep beep beep beep and so on
Engine oil low is not 2 beeps but a continuous horn fault and so are the following as well.
engine overspeed continuous horn
engine coolant overheat continuous horn
EMCT in which is exhaust manifold coolant temp overheat is continuous horn plus others faults carry continuous horn as well.
Just saying as an FYI so no offense to anyone but just straightening out what the horn signals mean as you can get some misinformed info on the net.
Last edited by BUP; 08-21-2015 at 12:30 PM.
#5
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Hey BUP. Any idea what might cause the steady beeping as soon as key is turned to on position. When I first turn the key to on position i get the single beep that lasts as long as the fuel pum cycle then silence for about 5 to 10 seconds then the steady beeping just goes and goes.
I should mention that I just did an engine swap on a boat that has been sitting for a while. I went from a 2000 7.4 MPI to a 2005 496 MAG HO.
Any insite greatly appreciated
I should mention that I just did an engine swap on a boat that has been sitting for a while. I went from a 2000 7.4 MPI to a 2005 496 MAG HO.
Any insite greatly appreciated
#6
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Single beep is normal but want to ask if you start the engine does the horn (solid) goes away ?
To make sure on my end is this a solid continuous horn or beep beep beep beep beep beep beep beep beep beep and so on ?
And we are talking about just key on - engine NOT running. if so asking again what happens when you start the engine ? What is your battery voltage while key on engine NOT running. Fully charged battery is 12.7 volts.
Make sure you do not have any voltage drops thru out the 12 V systems - meaning all 12 V wiring / cabling - ie: cables from starter to ground, cables to and from a battery selector switch ( perko switch) then next voltage at alternator and so forth.
Hi or low Battery voltage can set a continuous horn. Most important I would scan the engine and look into fault history to make sure you do not have a problem with something that would cause a horn if in fact that you even have a problem - you can also see voltage on the scan tool with key on only and again running voltage.
To make sure on my end is this a solid continuous horn or beep beep beep beep beep beep beep beep beep beep and so on ?
And we are talking about just key on - engine NOT running. if so asking again what happens when you start the engine ? What is your battery voltage while key on engine NOT running. Fully charged battery is 12.7 volts.
Make sure you do not have any voltage drops thru out the 12 V systems - meaning all 12 V wiring / cabling - ie: cables from starter to ground, cables to and from a battery selector switch ( perko switch) then next voltage at alternator and so forth.
Hi or low Battery voltage can set a continuous horn. Most important I would scan the engine and look into fault history to make sure you do not have a problem with something that would cause a horn if in fact that you even have a problem - you can also see voltage on the scan tool with key on only and again running voltage.
Last edited by BUP; 11-16-2015 at 12:08 AM.
#7
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Hey BUP. Any idea what might cause the steady beeping as soon as key is turned to on position. When I first turn the key to on position i get the single beep that lasts as long as the fuel pum cycle then silence for about 5 to 10 seconds then the steady beeping just goes and goes.
I should mention that I just did an engine swap on a boat that has been sitting for a while. I went from a 2000 7.4 MPI to a 2005 496 MAG HO.
Any insite greatly appreciated
I should mention that I just did an engine swap on a boat that has been sitting for a while. I went from a 2000 7.4 MPI to a 2005 496 MAG HO.
Any insite greatly appreciated
#8
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That happened to my boat this season, first they replaced the AIC valves come to find out that the PCM had a burnt AIC chip. Cost to replace was 2000.00 so I sent it to Whipple where they repaired it for 500.00.
#9
Given the boat and engines you have, do yourself a huge favor and buy your own Rinda Techmate scanner. It will save you tons of time and guesswork, to include $$ over the long run. Go in with a few buddies who could use it too, or foot the cost yourself and rent it to them when needed.