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Originally Posted by donzi matt
(Post 4450809)
Honestly, I've just been using the boat. This thing is just as reliable as it was with the stock motors. I think I have put about 20 hours on it so far this season and aside from the misfire I had at the beginning of the season it just starts and runs as it is supposed to. I should do some more tuning with props and with fuel pressure but it seems like there is no free time for that stuff. I listed the boat for sale on a couple of sites because I would really like to get into a top gun, if it sells I will move up, if it doesn't I'm going to keep adding power to this one. I am all over the new 540 shortblocks Raylar is offering so if I still have it this fall I will buy a pair of those and possibly whipples, then figure out what I am going to do about drives. This really is a sickness.
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Ran a poker run today. At one point I ran the boat at WOT for a full 15 minutes. Oil temps never got over 200 and it never hiccuped. Despite what people have said about 496 pistons, my experience has been different so far. I think having a safe tune and the oil cooler upgrades are a must. I don't feel the stock cooler is really sufficient for a stock motor and my initial AFR's when I installed the kit were certainly on the ragged edge. Anybody interested in upgrading their 496 should consider monitoring AFR's and oil cooler upgrades mandatory in my opinion. Ignoring this is playing with fire.
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Good work Matt!
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Originally Posted by donzi matt
(Post 4453123)
Ran a poker run today. At one point I ran the boat at WOT for a full 15 minutes. Oil temps never got over 200 and it never hiccuped. Despite what people have said about 496 pistons, my experience has been different so far. I think having a safe tune and the oil cooler upgrades are a must. I don't feel the stock cooler is really sufficient for a stock motor and my initial AFR's when I installed the kit were certainly on the ragged edge. Anybody interested in upgrading their 496 should consider monitoring AFR's and oil cooler upgrades mandatory in my opinion. Ignoring this is playing with fire.
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The cooler has a built in 190 degree thermostat and a bypass tube built in. It seems to work pretty slick so far, gets up to 190 and stays there, will eventually climb to 200 but I haven't seen much over that yet.
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I didn't realize it has a built in bypass.
Did the cooler fit in the stock location? What did you have to modify to make it work? I'm wondering if I could install it on my 2002. I would like to use the stock lines as I just replaced them a year or 2 ago. |
It's way bigger than the stock cooler. I bought a couple of brackets and built some spacers to mount it diagonally. My exhaust has shutoff valves so I just did away with the T at the end of the cooler, fabbed up a couple of water hoses and called it good. It isn't the most trick fabrication setup, but it works slicker than snot on a glass door knob. I don't think I ever took pictures of it installed unfortunately.
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Thanks for the info!!
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Originally Posted by donzi matt
(Post 4453123)
Ran a poker run today. At one point I ran the boat at WOT for a full 15 minutes. Oil temps never got over 200 and it never hiccuped. Despite what people have said about 496 pistons, my experience has been different so far. I think having a safe tune and the oil cooler upgrades are a must. I don't feel the stock cooler is really sufficient for a stock motor and my initial AFR's when I installed the kit were certainly on the ragged edge. Anybody interested in upgrading their 496 should consider monitoring AFR's and oil cooler upgrades mandatory in my opinion. Ignoring this is playing with fire.
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Originally Posted by Rage
(Post 4514701)
Is your oil temperature reading still before the oil cooler?
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I run all Volvo Penta accessories including the oil cooler on my race 496. Oil temp never gets above 210 degrees and that's laying on it at 5800 rpm.
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I have had more problems keeping mine warm enough, never had problems with being too hot.
I upgraded to a 3x12 when I rebuilt. I re-engineered the cooling system and simplified it by removing all the bullchit like the cold weather poppits, the cool fuel and the power steering coolers. I had a 190 oil t-stat that never opened so I took it out. I cruise at 185 and I can break 200/205 it I am running the crap out of it but it air temp needs to be hot with warm water temps and really leaning on it. |
That's about right where I'm at. If anyone is interested I'm selling this motor. Was completely freshened up right before Key West. Has about 4 hours on it now. Complete drop in and go less headers. About 630 reliable HP right now on 91. Not enough power for the SVL class.
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Can the coils be relocated without problems. Say to the back of the motor?
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Yes, they can be clustered on the rear of the motor using the coil brackets from the newer 6 liter la based motor.
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Originally Posted by Vortec Bandit
(Post 4514735)
Yes, they can be clustered on the rear of the motor using the coil brackets from the newer 6 liter la based motor.
You can template the Raylar relocation plates and locate them down low, out of sight and retain the stock wires/wire lengths. |
Well I am obviously the odd man out. With the previous 625hp at 5300 rpm engine running extended WOT @ 5800 rpm the 700HP rated Hardin Marine thermostatically controlled oil cooler and AN10 lines kept oil temp feed to engine at 190F but crank case oil temp (at filter head) would continue to climb until I chickened out ~270-280F. Previously believed the increasing crank case oil temperature at WOT was caused by insufficient oil flow rate through oil cooler do to bearing clearances. A similar problem was resolved for a Whippled 496 by increasing bearing clearances and adding external adjustable pressure oil pump to compensate for increased oil flow rate to maintain oil pressure. For my present increased HP build I have plans for an additional stand alone crankcase only oil cooler system if oil temp runaway is still a problem. With the 120F coolant thermostat the coolant never exceeds 150F at WOT and usually in the 140's.
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Originally Posted by Rage
(Post 4514758)
Well I am obviously the odd man out. With the previous 625hp at 5300 rpm engine running extended WOT @ 5800 rpm the 700HP rated Hardin Marine thermostatically controlled oil cooler and AN10 lines kept oil temp feed to engine at 190F but crank case oil temp (at filter head) would continue to climb until I chickened out ~270-280F. Previously believed the increasing crank case oil temperature at WOT was caused by insufficient oil flow rate through oil cooler do to bearing clearances. A similar problem was resolved for a Whippled 496 by increasing bearing clearances and adding external adjustable pressure oil pump to compensate for increased oil flow rate to maintain oil pressure. For my present increased HP build I have plans for an additional stand alone crankcase only oil cooler system if oil temp runaway is still a problem. With the 120F coolant thermostat the coolant never exceeds 150F at WOT and usually in the 140's.
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Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta
(Post 4514839)
What bearing clearances did you have it built with? Just curious...
Current build 1-4 mains are 0.0027-0.0030, @5 is 0.0035 and rods are 0.0023-0.0025 based on minimum clearance. Crankcase oil temp was up to 230F after short WOT ECU tuning run last Fall. |
Originally Posted by Vortec Bandit
(Post 4514727)
That's about right where I'm at. If anyone is interested I'm selling this motor. Was completely freshened up right before Key West. Has about 4 hours on it now. Complete drop in and go less headers. About 630 reliable HP right now on 91. Not enough power for the SVL class.
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Originally Posted by Rage
(Post 4514758)
Well I am obviously the odd man out. With the previous 625hp at 5300 rpm engine running extended WOT @ 5800 rpm the 700HP rated Hardin Marine thermostatically controlled oil cooler and AN10 lines kept oil temp feed to engine at 190F but crank case oil temp (at filter head) would continue to climb until I chickened out ~270-280F. Previously believed the increasing crank case oil temperature at WOT was caused by insufficient oil flow rate through oil cooler do to bearing clearances. A similar problem was resolved for a Whippled 496 by increasing bearing clearances and adding external adjustable pressure oil pump to compensate for increased oil flow rate to maintain oil pressure. For my present increased HP build I have plans for an additional stand alone crankcase only oil cooler system if oil temp runaway is still a problem. With the 120F coolant thermostat the coolant never exceeds 150F at WOT and usually in the 140's.
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Originally Posted by Rage
(Post 4514980)
I built it and 1-4 mains were 0.0017 to 0.0026, #5 was 0.0031 and rods all 0.0023 based on nominal clearance.
Current build 1-4 mains are 0.0027-0.0030, @5 is 0.0035 and rods are 0.0023-0.0025 based on minimum clearance. Crankcase oil temp was up to 230F after short WOT ECU tuning run last Fall. |
Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta
(Post 4515002)
Mine was built with .0024-.0026 mains rods were the same/close. I dont have any major isssues.
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Originally Posted by sutphen 30
(Post 4515009)
what water picks do you have and oil filter?
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so with all the kits, upgrades and obvious r&d on these 496's whats a stock one pull on the dyno
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Originally Posted by outonsafari
(Post 4515407)
so with all the kits, upgrades and obvious r&d on these 496's whats a stock one pull on the dyno
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nice read thanks for digging it up and replying
now i only have 5 more questions 6 prolly 6 |
Originally Posted by MER Performance
(Post 4357439)
I know, the discussion here is based around piston to valve clearance at this point... When I did this 8.1, it was a new learning experience, some people like Larry @ Raylar, act as if this is all top secret information.... Yes; some things are different, but not that much... so the stock stroke isn't exactly 4.375, the bore is 4.250 and the rod length is different along with a wrist pin size of 1.062. The piston wrist pin is offset, less than .050 if I recall, piston clearance to cylinder NA... Valve pockets are shallow, on stock pistons, along with a wrist pin the size for a diesel. The maining bearing upper has a narrow tab for fitting into block, I widened, the upper slot in block, to accept your std BBC H bearings. Rod bearings BBC, cam bearings BBC.... I sent the stock piston to my engineer at CP Pistons, they built a new piston, based on a 2618 forging they use in the Bullet Series Pistons, I think; I went to 4.255 bore, piston was dished, valve pocket for lift cam, .990 pin, no wrist pin offset and I think; I ran about .0045 clearance maybe .005, Hell Fire top, Napier second, ring pack....
That engine was designed to run forever at a continuous rpm, I was told they were designed for generator packages, to run on natural gas.The oil pan and windage design is pretty nice, plus the engine can stand on its own using the oil pan....lol Its a expensive platform to modify, if you have a nodular crank, I would be limited on HP application, I don't care for the balancer and the long crank snout, this is one reason we spent $2600 on a crankshaft, my client wanted a dependable build, this went into a 27 Eliminator deck boat.. Can someone that has used the Raylar kits tell me how, the rocker arm adjusting nuts are secured ? Are the guide plates stock along with the rocker arm studs? I was told the rocker arm studs are modified....[ATTACH=CONFIG]545485[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]545486[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]545487[/ATTACH] |
Originally Posted by 25Orion
(Post 4639521)
those look to be the Scorpion rockers they sell at Summit, did you ever figure out a way to secure them properly? As well do they fit under the factory valve covers? MER posted that on the first page of this thread. I was looking to do the same thing. Scorpion could only tell me they might work. I then went with Raylar's rockers. They fit under stock valve covers. Valvetrain geometry is perfect as well. The R&D has already been done with the Raylar setup. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...52905a6f3d.jpg |
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