Card in spokes noise from back of engine
09-21-2015, 01:48 PM
#21
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A loose spark plug can make a really loud tick since it will still fire the mixture and you are getting peak cylinder pressure escaping. You did just change the plugs, checked that boots are tight, but plug could still be loose. Maybe the tow to the gas station was enough to vibrate it a little further out of the head?
09-21-2015, 01:53 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
^^^^ will agree with that to exhaust manifold gasket leak.
you need to run the engine with drive off to see the what happens
An alignment tool can pull in and out real easy but when engine running and alignment tool still stabbed the circle pattern will tell you a lot.
1 if rotation pattern is egged shaped - warped coupler mounting, loose coupler, even bad coupler. Loose flywheel, bad gimbal bearing.
U joints that seem butter smooth by hand rotation testing is not a 100 % determining factor that they are good. The true inspection is to pull caps off and look for scaring and needle bearings that could worn as well. Greasing U joints helps to disguises this with hand movement testing. Just went thru this as the U joints felt 100 % great by hand but internal inspection showed a different story. Scaring seen after pulling caps off. Installed brand new U joints - the noise and slight vibration I had went away completely. Just saying and not saying this is your problem but IMO has not been ruled out 100 % either. .
you need to run the engine with drive off to see the what happens
An alignment tool can pull in and out real easy but when engine running and alignment tool still stabbed the circle pattern will tell you a lot.
1 if rotation pattern is egged shaped - warped coupler mounting, loose coupler, even bad coupler. Loose flywheel, bad gimbal bearing.
U joints that seem butter smooth by hand rotation testing is not a 100 % determining factor that they are good. The true inspection is to pull caps off and look for scaring and needle bearings that could worn as well. Greasing U joints helps to disguises this with hand movement testing. Just went thru this as the U joints felt 100 % great by hand but internal inspection showed a different story. Scaring seen after pulling caps off. Installed brand new U joints - the noise and slight vibration I had went away completely. Just saying and not saying this is your problem but IMO has not been ruled out 100 % either. .
09-21-2015, 01:54 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
A loose spark plug can make a really loud tick since it will still fire the mixture and you are getting peak cylinder pressure escaping. You did just change the plugs, checked that boots are tight, but plug could still be loose. Maybe the tow to the gas station was enough to vibrate it a little further out of the head?
09-21-2015, 02:48 PM
#24
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If the coupler came loose for some reason or is out of round it could be hitting where it exits the rear of the bell housing, flywheel ring gear ?
09-21-2015, 03:29 PM
#25
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1-1/4" vinyl hose, garden hose to NPT fitting, pipe bushing, hose clamps. Just fiddle with the available fittings until you find a pipe bushing that fits snugly into the hose, screw in the garden hose fitting and you're good to go. Works great with DWP lowers.
09-21-2015, 03:46 PM
#26
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Like I said pull off water impeller housing water input hose then buy a long enough hose to reinstall and fill bucket with water then stick that hose in the bucket of water and start engine. So simple to do and barely any extra cost.
keep a garden hose with min of water on filling the bucket so your engine / impeller does not suck the bucket dry of water.
keep a garden hose with min of water on filling the bucket so your engine / impeller does not suck the bucket dry of water.
09-21-2015, 04:28 PM
#27
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I have something similar I made with a ball valve. Use it for winterizing and running in the driveway, but my water pump is relatively easy to get to in order to swap hoses.
Not to harp on you but for information, homey Depot has everything you need.
1-1/4" vinyl hose, garden hose to NPT fitting, pipe bushing, hose clamps. Just fiddle with the available fittings until you find a pipe bushing that fits snugly into the hose, screw in the garden hose fitting and you're good to go. Works great with DWP lowers.
1-1/4" vinyl hose, garden hose to NPT fitting, pipe bushing, hose clamps. Just fiddle with the available fittings until you find a pipe bushing that fits snugly into the hose, screw in the garden hose fitting and you're good to go. Works great with DWP lowers.
09-21-2015, 04:53 PM
#28
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other advantage of pulling belt is sez for sure if it is or isn't a belt driven accessory. doubt it though. what probly caused it was one more torque of input shaft tilting drive all way up to trailer position. so most likely culprit is gonna be coupler or u-joint or front bearing on drive...
09-21-2015, 08:05 PM
#29
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[QUOTE=dereknkathy;4357216]other advantage of pulling belt is sez for sure if it is or isn't a belt driven accessory. doubt it though. what probly caused it was one more torque of input shaft tilting drive all way up to trailer position. so most likely culprit is gonna be coupler or u
Yes, other than the ride on the trailer the only thing the boat went thru that it has not gone thru since launch this spring is the drive tilted all the way up into trailer position.
Yes, other than the ride on the trailer the only thing the boat went thru that it has not gone thru since launch this spring is the drive tilted all the way up into trailer position.
09-21-2015, 08:10 PM
#30
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