Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER

I was just talking about some intercooler plumbing last night with Icdedppl. Last week, i messed around in the garage with some water fittings on my intercoolers i plan to install.

I first tested my city water psi, and i had 36psi deadheaded. I then hooked up a 3/4 water line to my water spigot. I filled a bucket at the rate of 450 gallons per hour. I then hooked that line to my intercooler inlet, with a -10 outlet. I measured the same 450 gallon per hour flow rate, with ZERO psi restriction in the core.

I then removed the -10 discharge, and installed a -8 discharge. Flow now went down to 360 gallons per hour, and recorded 10psi restriction in the core housing.

Now, teague recommends a -12 inlet, and TWO -10 outlets for my particular intercooler, with 20psi in the core housing at wot.

What i am getting at here, is my simple 3/4 hose setup, coming from city water supply, was vastly incapable, of getting anywhere near the water flow to the core, that it is capable of flowing. So on the dyno where we recently tested a 1071 roots blown engine, we recorded 112 degrees at 10lbs of boost intake temps. That was with a cheesy garden hose setup hooked to the core, that is not nearly flowing the water , than you can flow, when properly installed in the boat when plumbed correctly, and still had respectable intake temps at 10psi .

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER

Those are the 6-71/14-71 GMC style replacement whipples. They are bad azz. But, there isn't anything from the merc 575sci, that would bolt to them, except, possibly the throttle bodies. They are a great replacement for a guy wanting to ditch his 8-71, 10-71, etc, and go screw.

Its hard to argue $3750.00 , and be able to bolt it all on in a weekend, for a Dyers kit. Even less if you choose for the satin finish.

Originally Posted by mike tkach

i think the water we were running through the cooler on the dyno was 50 to 60 deg so it probibally removed as much heat as a properly plumbed system at 80 deg water temp.

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER

What I was trying to say, was with a garden hose spigot, and single -10 exit, I was getting 0 psi in the core. No pressure at all at full blast. In order to get 15-20psi in the core, with TWO -10 exit lines, I would need to immensely increase water supply volume to the core. Whether or not that would make a difference in the charge temps, I have no idea. I would think teague, whipple, PF marine, or some of them would know, or have tested all that stuff.

Originally Posted by ToMorrow44

Yeah, a boat moving at 80mph is going to move a ton more water than a garden hose, even with only a tiny bit of the pickup exposed to the water stream. By increasing the volumetric flow rate through the cooler, you increase the rate of heat transfer, thus cooler intake air temps (up to a certain point). Especially if the water is 60* good god thats cold! Teague has certainly done a lot of experimenting with their water systems to increase efficiency and reduce pressure spikes.

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER

Up on the big lake, the water is in the 60's even in august !

Water pressure in the SuperChiller is required to achieve the heat transfer that creates the performance increase. It is important to maintain 15 to 20 PSI in the intercooler when the blower is making maximum boost. Never exceed 30 PSI or damage to the Superchiller and/or engine may occur.

What I was trying to say, was with a garden hose spigot, and single -10 exit, I was getting 0 psi in the core. No pressure at all at full blast. In order to get 15-20psi in the core, with TWO -10 exit lines, I would need to immensely increase water supply volume to the core. Whether or not that would make a difference in the charge temps, I have no idea. I would think teague, whipple, PF marine, or some of them would know, or have tested all that stuff.

Some of the big custom procharged engines I've seen, with homemade huge custom intercoolers, had 1.25 water line feeding it, and 1.25 water line on the dump! Thats huge.

Originally Posted by airjunky

Guess im lost on the objective of the op's version of "bolt on", was he wanting to yank the 4 bolts off the 256 and slap a 166 lb blower in its place with a 16 rib belt ? The conversion kit appears to use 8mm cog which goes back to hoping planets are aligned when crank was born or run dampner delete on flywheel app.
Still kind of feeling the love for spinning less inertia way off the front of the crank on a stock 575 lower if piece of mind is paramount.
Ill throw it out there , thinking its subject to 28% risk crank snout failure on a stock forged production line marine app