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Yes. You're the one who clued me in about them. I made arrangements with him so I could buy/test with them just before the engine problems. The props that I was running were loaners and not for sale. I've got to see where I'm at with the new engines now prop wise
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I can't afford to replace parts that aren't broken so I'm going to reuse the 305 heads and current intake. We're going to bump the comp about .5, run a few hundred rpm higher and go more aggressive with the cam to take advantage of the exhaust I have now. I'll try some 4500s with an adapter to my intake also
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Originally Posted by bck
(Post 4365461)
It has t stats. Water temp never budges off 140-150
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Originally Posted by sutphen 30
(Post 4365588)
did you ever mention how much water pressure you have?
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Originally Posted by bck
(Post 4365379)
Water temp never moved. Oil temp on only one engine went up to about 240. Maybe a minute or so at that temp
Originally Posted by bck
(Post 4363897)
I feel that the bores being both out of round and tapered started taking the pistons out from day one. I believe me getting them hot (240° in just 1 engine) accelerated the process, but the writing was already on the wall for them.
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Originally Posted by Zone 5
(Post 4365437)
On the remote filter is most likely before the cooler. (The way most stuff is rigged) You can get a bunch of discussions about where and why you should check oil temp before/after cooler. Mine was always before, and ran 230 all day long for 5 years, with no issues.
If you are talking about where to measure temp then that is another discussion |
I'll verify how the filters are plumbed in relation to the cooler tomorrow. If the temp sender is after the cooler and read 240 how hot would the oil likely have been before the cooler?
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That depends on the size of the cooler and the water temp, my multipass Teague offshore cooler supposedly can make a 50* drop in temp.
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Originally Posted by Wobble
(Post 4365845)
That depends on the size of the cooler and the water temp, my multipass Teague offshore cooler supposedly can make a 50* drop in temp.
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Found a picture on the phone. Wouldn't you need to know how the fluid flows in side of the filter housing to determine if the sender's are before or after cooling? And how does that flow change as the t-stat opens and closes?
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