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Pulling an engine TRS SETUP

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Old 10-26-2015 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by donzi matt
I always left the exhaust on and just pulled the risers, but it took some contorting to get the motor mount bolts in. How bad was it getting the exhaust out in the boat?
Start to finish maybe 2 hours max. Really wasn't bad.
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Old 10-26-2015 | 07:19 PM
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What are you doing to the motors? I think I saw you were going to do heads.
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Old 10-26-2015 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited jd
No idea why you'd want to leave the trans in the boat, as Tom said lining it back up will be a major pain. You can leave the drives on and pull it also.
You still have to pull the drives off (I think as someone stated) when you put the engines back in. there is no way in hell you could get the input shaft to line right.
Also If you have the velvet drives with the shift interlock valve on the top of the trans, don't forget to disconnect the lines from that valve. Every time Ive pulled my engines I have always forgot about it. Also, when you pull the trans/ engine out, look at the fiber washer/ spring washer that go between the trans mounting ears and the transom assembly. I found the spring washer on one of mine had cracked.
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Old 10-26-2015 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by phughes69
Also, when you pull the trans/ engine out, look at the fiber washer/ spring washer that go between the trans mounting ears and the transom assembly. I found the spring washer on one of mine had cracked.
All of the washers, springs, and bolts were brand new when I put the motors back in a couple of years ago.
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Old 10-26-2015 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by donzi matt
What are you doing to the motors? I think I saw you were going to do heads.
I put about 100 hours on this year, and after adding steering the boat is great.
It has a minor oil leak, and I want to add lines to easily drain the engine oil.
My plan is heads and cams. I'm thinking dart 308s and a cam similar to/or 525efis. I think that and labbed props will get me high 70s. I have a set of 25 mirage plus props to lab.
One thing is low idle oil pressure is low after running. Runs maybe 15 to 20 but goes right to 40 if you bump them to 1200 or so. I don't think anything is hurt but may need a high volume oil pump? I'm probably gonna pull some bearing just to check/measure the condition.
The boat has run flawless.
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Old 10-26-2015 | 07:38 PM
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The oil pressure has done that as long as I have owned the boat, even on the original motor. 20/20 hindsight I wish I had put high pressure pumps in them. Usually after idling for a minute they come back up. I thought there was a good chance it was either foaming the oil or oil temperature was high. The other thing I wished I had done was upgrade the oil coolers, lines, and fittings.

I am really happy to hear the boat has run well for you.
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Old 10-26-2015 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by donzi matt
The oil pressure has done that as long as I have owned the boat, even on the original motor. 20/20 hindsight I wish I had put high pressure pumps in them. Usually after idling for a minute they come back up. I thought there was a good chance it was either foaming the oil or oil temperature was high. The other thing I wished I had done was upgrade the oil coolers, lines, and fittings.

I am really happy to hear the boat has run well for you.
Yes, it comes back up fairly quick, and never runs below 40 at 1200 or so. I can always add bigger coolers and may research high volume pumps while it's out. Another possibility is 50 weight oil, as I have run 40.
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Old 10-26-2015 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by phughes69
You still have to pull the drives off (I think as someone stated) when you put the engines back in. there is no way in hell you could get the input shaft to line right.
Also If you have the velvet drives with the shift interlock valve on the top of the trans, don't forget to disconnect the lines from that valve. Every time Ive pulled my engines I have always forgot about it. Also, when you pull the trans/ engine out, look at the fiber washer/ spring washer that go between the trans mounting ears and the transom assembly. I found the spring washer on one of mine had cracked.
Want to watch me do it? I'd rather do it that way. Hate trying to put trs or ssm drives back on after. I've done it this way with about 10 different trs boats couple ssm 3's, and a couple of ssm 6 boats. Formula 311 included
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Old 10-26-2015 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited jd
Want to watch me do it? I'd rather do it that way. Hate trying to put trs or ssm drives back on after. I've done it this way with about 10 different trs boats couple ssm 3's, and a couple of ssm 6 boats. Formula 311 included
Showoff.
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Old 10-26-2015 | 09:59 PM
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To see upper 70's with a TRS 311 you will need closer to 600 hp spinning labbed 25 plus's to at least 56-5700, that's what it took my buddys and he did everything to get it there, went 80 with 502's and Edelbrock heads one time... but with the merc HP500 heads would only go 75...5350rpm


Originally Posted by Mr Maine
I put about 100 hours on this year, and after adding steering the boat is great.
It has a minor oil leak, and I want to add lines to easily drain the engine oil.
My plan is heads and cams. I'm thinking dart 308s and a cam similar to/or 525efis. I think that and labbed props will get me high 70s. I have a set of 25 mirage plus props to lab.
One thing is low idle oil pressure is low after running. Runs maybe 15 to 20 but goes right to 40 if you bump them to 1200 or so. I don't think anything is hurt but may need a high volume oil pump? I'm probably gonna pull some bearing just to check/measure the condition.
The boat has run flawless.

Last edited by Full Force; 10-26-2015 at 10:05 PM.
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