Water Flow - flush kit vs. lake
11-10-2015, 10:11 AM
#11
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Thread Starter
standard water pressure, possibly even on the lower side of the scale. 2 hoses, from two separate hose bibs. One each side of the house. With both wide open, they are sharing the pressure off the main line. The more I think about this, the more I feel dumb for doing it. Talked to CMI this morning, he said in 2 1/2 minutes I didnt damage anything, headers didnt turn blue, just don't do it again, and never above idle (not even a bump) while on garden hose.
That hot one (port on port motor) had only cooled for 15min or so before I fired it up again, but in the lake. Immediately was pushing lots of water out the exhaust and the header very quickly went from hot/warm to cold. I have to assume that didnt hurt anything either introducing the cooler water into the header (creating a quick cool down).....
Lesson learned for sure.....
That hot one (port on port motor) had only cooled for 15min or so before I fired it up again, but in the lake. Immediately was pushing lots of water out the exhaust and the header very quickly went from hot/warm to cold. I have to assume that didnt hurt anything either introducing the cooler water into the header (creating a quick cool down).....
Lesson learned for sure.....
VIP Member
11-10-2015, 12:40 PM
#14
Absolutely use the flush kit.
With engine off, it flushes backwards out the drive any debris that is caught on that side of the water inlet. When you turn on the engine, the water goes straight into the SWP and through the motor. You don't have the risk of the SWP not priming.
"Related-related:"
Some of the factory installed fresh water flush kits have check-ball valves in the 'Tee' into the system. The check balls are a point of failure. RIP THE CHECK BALLS out of the system. They can gum up with debris, and restrict cooling sea water flow. I've seen this on multiple boats; namely: several Bajas. You don't need the check ball valve in there.
Throw your muffs away if you have this system installed.
With engine off, it flushes backwards out the drive any debris that is caught on that side of the water inlet. When you turn on the engine, the water goes straight into the SWP and through the motor. You don't have the risk of the SWP not priming.
"Related-related:"
Some of the factory installed fresh water flush kits have check-ball valves in the 'Tee' into the system. The check balls are a point of failure. RIP THE CHECK BALLS out of the system. They can gum up with debris, and restrict cooling sea water flow. I've seen this on multiple boats; namely: several Bajas. You don't need the check ball valve in there.
Throw your muffs away if you have this system installed.
11-10-2015, 12:49 PM
#15
Registered
Thanks I suspected that was the case but never asked anyone. Never liked or trusted the muff as too much water always seemed to leak around the edges.
I think there is check built into the fitting the hose adapter is inserted into. This fitting is in the hull (side) of the boat near the stern.
Padraig
I think there is check built into the fitting the hose adapter is inserted into. This fitting is in the hull (side) of the boat near the stern.
Padraig
Last edited by Padraig; 11-10-2015 at 12:55 PM.
11-10-2015, 04:16 PM
#16
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iTrader: (1)
Unless the new one doesn't pump. Happened to me this year. Put on a new housing / impeller kit - just for piece of mind (old pump was working). Put boat in water, and it would not pump. Tied up to dock, and put the old pump back on - and it pumped fine. I left it in for the remainder of the summer. ....I always keep my old pumps on the boat (as long as they didn't fail) in case I lose one while traveling. i'd suggest that you do the same.
