Thats not right he has more hot rod cars than boats in his pic

even more great info. i need to search that for sure. and get the secondary and if equipped the third filter as well. is there procedures for replacing those on here?

can you tell by my engine serial number? 0W652498

how long have you owned the boat ? has the cool fuel GEN III been changed because I will tell you why - if they do not get drained and or drained properly they internal crack causing water to piss out from the cell. I did 6 alone this spring commission 2015 because the owners and other shops do know about draining them. I should say untrained techs. thet are 1100 bucks for a new one without labor.

Put up pic of the backside of your cool I will bea able to tell you which version you have what to do. My gues is version one the worst version to have if it was never changed out. Also put up a pic of the front and side of your cool fuel.

Brian do mean the basket filters in the injectors ?

Just adding - There is a tiny screen in the fuel cooler just under the fuel pressure regulator for all GEN II cool fuels. Also the sealing O ring is very important.

I bought this boat two weeks ago. I've had it on the water twice. It ran flawlessly both times. I will get pictures Friday when I go back down to my shop.

According to your engine serial number and NEVER changed out all OEM stock - you have version 1 of the GEN III cool fuel system. Like I said you should have and told you already how to completely drain the cool fuel GEN III version 1 as I thought that was what you had anyways. 2 hoses attached to one bracket and that bracket attached NUT screws into a type of stud on the cool fuel cell back side of it.

DO NOT BEND THE BRACKET any shape or form because when reinstalling it this will cause a water leak at the plastic barb fittings going into the cell. The O rings an the plastic barb fittings are important as well make sure they are in good shape.

BUP - Question for you. I have GEN III cool fuel (like RGPIII) on my engines which have the three point drain system (two on the sea pump and one on the water distribution housing). There is a fourth blue plug on the thermostat housing for venting during draining. I have never specifically drained the cool fuel system.

Every winter I run the engine to warm it up, pull the drain plugs and vent plug, reinstall the plugs, then run 4-5 gallons of RV antifreeze through the engines. This is what is described in the service manual and never had a problem (stored in a unheated garage that can reach well below freezing). Does running the antifreeze through take care of the GEN III cool fuel system? Thanks.

I'm gonna ask a dumb question, i have searched your posts about this draining of the cool fuel system. and seems like all of them are to combat freezing and cracking the housing. my garage will not get below freezing at all. is this the only reason for draining it? im assuming that i want to get it drained just so it doesn't sit in there until spring.

Thank you. IMO for a stock engine the benefit of a dana marine or header exhaust is not worth the price for gains achieved. I have some vids of running Labor Day weekend I'll try and get posted up. A few things about winterizing I did not see posted yet..... Back flush your oil and ps coolers along with your heat exchanger, grease gimbal bearing, lube shift linkage, clean/ replace IAC muffler if equipped. Soak flame arrestor in lacquer thinner and blow out w compressed air. You'd be amazed what comes out if it is not done on a yearly basis.