Drive Lube Reservoir Fitting at transom breakage
#1
Drive Lube Reservoir Fitting at transom breakage
Has anyone else had issues with the fitting that goes through the transom to the outdrive from the drive lube reservoir breaking? I have had one break on the stbd side about 2 years ago and now I have the port side one broken.
Any tips on how to replace/repair temporarily for this season? It is REALLY hard to get to on my boat.
When I do replace, any tips on a replacement that wont break so easily?
Any tips on how to replace/repair temporarily for this season? It is REALLY hard to get to on my boat.
When I do replace, any tips on a replacement that wont break so easily?
#2
Banned
iTrader: (9)
Very common they are cheap plastic and over time become brittle. Most of the time they get broken when changing U joint bellows.
The hardest part of the job can be access and getting the new C clip back on. I do not install the stock C Clip - as I have found SS hair clips to use - you can just push them on and so much easier to pull them off first try everytime.
The hardest part of the job can be access and getting the new C clip back on. I do not install the stock C Clip - as I have found SS hair clips to use - you can just push them on and so much easier to pull them off first try everytime.
Last edited by BUP; 02-07-2016 at 11:23 AM.
#3
Registered
It's a pretty common thing to break that fitting. I've broken quite a few over the years. How hard it is to change really depends on the boat and the access to the rear of the engine. If it has silent choice exhaust, it is much harder because of the Y pipe in the way. As BUP mentioned, the hardest part is removing the retaining clip. The fitting just pulls out of the gimble once the clip is removed.
Eddie
Eddie
#5
Banned
iTrader: (9)
Merc offering is the only one that has it made and its plastic. You have to install it from the outside in. It can not be removed nor installed from the engine compartment / bilge area.
The inner hose connection and the C clip needs to be removed first which is located in the inner transom area, this will allow you to pull it out from the outside / outer transom area. We have installed many with the drive still on as well. Sometimes it a matter of choice - drive on or drive off.
The inner hose connection and the C clip needs to be removed first which is located in the inner transom area, this will allow you to pull it out from the outside / outer transom area. We have installed many with the drive still on as well. Sometimes it a matter of choice - drive on or drive off.
Last edited by BUP; 02-14-2016 at 11:42 AM.
#6
Registered
It's a pretty common thing to break that fitting. I've broken quite a few over the years. How hard it is to change really depends on the boat and the access to the rear of the engine. If it has silent choice exhaust, it is much harder because of the Y pipe in the way. As BUP mentioned, the hardest part is removing the retaining clip. The fitting just pulls out of the gimble once the clip is removed.
Eddie
Eddie
#9
Charter Member
Charter Member
I do a good many bellows replacement's and have broken my share of those plastic fittings. The first thing I do now when replacing shift cable or any bellows is cut the
hose. Usually just the bell housing moving around while changing bellows will break that fitting. Definitely a poor design but they've used it for years. It used to be a brass fitting but they changed it to plastic.
hose. Usually just the bell housing moving around while changing bellows will break that fitting. Definitely a poor design but they've used it for years. It used to be a brass fitting but they changed it to plastic.