VST or Aeromotive?
#21
you should/could also run a wire from starter solenoid I terminal to relay .Whenever starter is engaged pump will run..MO
Well there you go I put a A1000 on around eight years ago first for fuel injection now it runs a carb app. with return to the tank. Has worked flawless except if left to sit for long time I have jump the relay for the pump to fill the carb [ takes too long to crank the motor because it runs thru a oil pressure switch]
No check valve.................good info thanks
No check valve.................good info thanks
#22
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I did this to my '93 502 mags and it should be considered a must for any of the vst equipped engines.no more problems. period.I just extended the existing factory wires that hooked the VST hp pump to my a1000 pump mounted low on an outside stringer, I personally ran the big ramco/FST/merc racing for a pre filter, the aeromotive 10 micron after, -10 xrp pushloc supply ,-8 out of the pump to the 10 micron, -6 for about 6" to fuel rail. soldered a -6 male bung onto a piece of the factory stainless fuel line with its captive o-ring connection to the rail. simple and easy.
Check out a cool fuel equipped engine and there's a nice brass plug that blocks the return passage,.goes in the back of the rail mounted regulator. then just you have a rail damper . which is good. I drilled and tapped the rail 1/8 npt to plug the passage to the regulator. not so good. also be sure to open up the #7 injector port while your at it.its like 1/8 " probably ok for stock but it looks funny compared to the rest that are about 5/16
I ran fuel into the back of the rail, out the front thru the 1/4npt port for the test port to an a1000 regulator . With the double returns to the tank filler hose , I constantly had a fuel smell, so I pulled the fuel sending unit and installed bulkhead fuel cell fittings for the return lines just to the side of the sender where I could access the nuts. those fittings seal with teflon washers so no leaks. be sure to put a aeromotive check valve on the pump outlet , I didn't and it will start faster and cleaner after sitting a while if you do. the VST cost me two motors this aeromotive upgrade is pretty cheap...... but it does take some rigging.
Check out a cool fuel equipped engine and there's a nice brass plug that blocks the return passage,.goes in the back of the rail mounted regulator. then just you have a rail damper . which is good. I drilled and tapped the rail 1/8 npt to plug the passage to the regulator. not so good. also be sure to open up the #7 injector port while your at it.its like 1/8 " probably ok for stock but it looks funny compared to the rest that are about 5/16
I ran fuel into the back of the rail, out the front thru the 1/4npt port for the test port to an a1000 regulator . With the double returns to the tank filler hose , I constantly had a fuel smell, so I pulled the fuel sending unit and installed bulkhead fuel cell fittings for the return lines just to the side of the sender where I could access the nuts. those fittings seal with teflon washers so no leaks. be sure to put a aeromotive check valve on the pump outlet , I didn't and it will start faster and cleaner after sitting a while if you do. the VST cost me two motors this aeromotive upgrade is pretty cheap...... but it does take some rigging.
edit in, I fully realize drilling into a fuel tank would require the utmost caution, air drill, broach and backer to keep debris out
Last edited by buck35; 02-14-2016 at 10:37 AM. Reason: info
#23
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I didn't return my fuel to the tank, just pump suction, because it was a much easier run. 1 year down with no issues.
I used the A750 pump, but plumbed it where I can swap in an A1000 if needed. Reason being that I don't see the benefit of circulating excess fuel, it's best left in the tank.
I used the A750 pump, but plumbed it where I can swap in an A1000 if needed. Reason being that I don't see the benefit of circulating excess fuel, it's best left in the tank.
#25
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I didn't return my fuel to the tank, just pump suction, because it was a much easier run. 1 year down with no issues.
I used the A750 pump, but plumbed it where I can swap in an A1000 if needed. Reason being that I don't see the benefit of circulating excess fuel, it's best left in the tank.
I used the A750 pump, but plumbed it where I can swap in an A1000 if needed. Reason being that I don't see the benefit of circulating excess fuel, it's best left in the tank.
#26
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[HR][/HR]I know it sounds sketchy but I'm kind of a risk taker. Plus my tank is shallow. Sending unit was right at the back. I made a little attachment to my shop vac to catch the debris. And the tank was dry. But I guess I may need a disclaimer :try at your on risk ! Probably not the best way to do it .......but no more looking for a fuel leak because I smell gas.
Last edited by Langston; 02-15-2016 at 06:58 PM.
#27
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I didn't return my fuel to the tank, just pump suction, because it was a much easier run. 1 year down with no issues.
I used the A750 pump, but plumbed it where I can swap in an A1000 if needed. Reason being that I don't see the benefit of circulating excess fuel, it's best left in the tank.
I used the A750 pump, but plumbed it where I can swap in an A1000 if needed. Reason being that I don't see the benefit of circulating excess fuel, it's best left in the tank.
#28
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two easy ways to do return are to drill/tap sending unit or buy a replacement for a diesel as they put a return in there, of one of the adapters that go in the fill hose..
#29
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Just a heads up, Mallory Marine has their fuel pumps on clearance with Summit right now... And for how much I hate the VST on mine, with is getting hot after a run and not starting, i choose not to screw with what generally works for how bad that is.