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Old 02-28-2016, 11:06 PM
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It's simple. I started with no engines, no accessories, brackets,etc.I did get two crank driven Sherwood sea water pumps though. So instead of buying all the crap to go with a circ pump and have something else to break and eat hp I opted to eliminate the circ pump. Run one belt, and clean up the engine bay. If I want to add some hit later via blowers I am already set up for it. That and I got a very good deal on 2 crossover setups brand new. From the research I have done by adding crossovers I will have pressure issues, possible oil temp issues, etc.
Originally Posted by phragle
So...I havent been following this thread too close, but your building a 450 hp 454 still?? Why are you running crossovers, worried about water dumps, adding fancy oil stats etc??? Dont forget to dry sump it, add spring oilers, oilers for the backs of the pistons.......

Your building a mild 454 not a firebreathing 540 with a giant blower....

Last edited by mggdoors; 02-28-2016 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mggdoors
It's simple. I started with no engines, no accessories, brackets,etc.I did get two crank driven Sherwood sea water pumps though. So instead of buying all the crap to go with a circ pump and have something else to break and eat hp I opted to eliminate the circ pump. Run one belt, and clean up the engine bay. If I want to add some hit later via blowers I am already set up for it. That and I got a very good deal on 2 crossover setups brand new. From the research I have done by adding crossovers I will have pressure issues, possible oil temp issues, etc.
Just do a search on threads and post regarding plumbing x overs etc. while they undoubtedly clean up under the hatch and have a little bling they can also even be a hassle for big power engines unless your wfo nonstop building a lot of heat. If you do need parts to get engines marinized do a search in the wanted section. Some fellow boaters will charge very little plus shipping on accessories you may need. Especially if there just collecting dust and don't need anymore.

You should be fine with the x overs however once again do a search and use your judgment because what works for some applications are nightmares for others. Make sure you drill three or four 1/8" holes in your 140 water t-stats. Personally I'd leave stats out for first time out just to make sure you don't have a stat hang up on you while your busy checking everything over under the hatch.

Do your x overs have any NPT outlets or slip on hose port to run up to your t-stat housing?
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:30 PM
  #153  
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http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-13357...th-bypass.aspx These are the kits I have. I was actually considering going to a 160 thermostat with a couple holes as I have read that it will probably run too cold with 140.
Originally Posted by getrdunn
Just do a search on threads and post regarding plumbing x overs etc. while they undoubtedly clean up under the hatch and have a little bling they can also even be a hassle for big power engines unless your wfo nonstop building a lot of heat. If you do need parts to get engines marinized do a search in the wanted section. Some fellow boaters will charge very little plus shipping on accessories you may need. Especially if there just collecting dust and don't need anymore.

You should be fine with the x overs however once again do a search and use your judgment because what works for some applications are nightmares for others. Make sure you drill three or four 1/8" holes in your 140 water t-stats. Personally I'd leave stats out for first time out just to make sure you don't have a stat hang up on you while your busy checking everything over under the hatch.

Do your x overs have any NPT outlets or slip on hose port to run up to your t-stat housing?
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Old 02-29-2016, 09:15 PM
  #154  
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You'll be good to go but consider using the 142 that comes with kit. You'll have best luck with anything btwn 140-143. I know what your thinking but you'll struggle to get to temps to 160 resulting in opening and closing frequently causing a lot of temp fluctuations. Not ideal for your engines. Plus the same will result with your exhaust cause until the stat opens all you really have is the bypass hose cooling both manifolds.

Last edited by getrdunn; 02-29-2016 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 02-29-2016, 09:21 PM
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I can see your definitely gonna want pressure relief valves.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by getrdunn
It's kinda like having to have the fast car in high school. Rather than chasing girls during or after the games "you had nasty 80 weight tranny oil dripping on your chest from blowing/changing 4 speed Muncies and no way to the dance"
Ha! I can relate to that. I was the king of blown up Muncie's in my circle back in the day. Must have busted a dozen of them in second gen Camaro. Blew the cluster gear right out the side of the case one time on a power shift. I swear to this day that the car must have had some kind of Jamaican voodoo curse on it. Got rid of it and have never busted another tranny to this day - although I drive a little more conservatively than back then.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mggdoors
Delta cams is recommending regrind to 228/228 .554/.554 lift on 114 lsa. How does that sound for my application. Also since the cam is billet is it still a hardened surface
Nooooooo!!!! For the love of God, do not attempt to regrind the GM hyd roller cam. You will end up with severe spalling due to grinding through the induction hardening. I found this out the hard way - had that same outfit regrind one of the stock GM Mag cams for a little more lift. Ruined an engine for my troubles. Was lucky enough to get Delta to cover some of it, because they thought it would work. You can get away with this to some extent with some of the true billet cams that have a deeper, different type of hardening, but not on the GM cams. Just buy something with the specs that you need.

And for the record, when I did the second build of my 489, I had it dynoed. 585 HP / 605 ft/lbs. Gen VI block, Eagle 4.25 crank, forged flat tops, about 9.25 CR, AFR 265 oval heads, HP500 carb rejetted, Dart intake, Lightning headers, custom billet hyd roller - .596 / .612, 226*/230* @ 0.050, 114* LSA, if I recall correctly.
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:39 PM
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I have been doing some running of the boat (18 hours on the clock) so I figured I would let everyone know how it runs. Just a recap - twin 489 strokers 9.6-1 flat tops with pocket ported l29 vortec heads, gil offshore thru transom, quick fuel dp 750 (jetting 75 pri, 84 sec 6.5 pv ), kn 14x4 filters, non roller rockers, xm284hr cam straight up. Bravo 1.5 with stock 26 bravo props. 5000 rpm at 70. runs extremely well to that point. Like lightning fast compared to all my buddies boats in havasu this weekend. Hopefully with a little luck we can squeeze a few extra mph out of her. Next upgrade is going to be afr 265 heads. in the mean time I am very pleased with this budget build. Me and a buddy swapped boats for a little while. He has a 33 baja with twin hp 500 and mine pulled a hell of alot harder than his. Having minor oil preesure drop after hard pull at wot. Drops from 65 to 40 at 5k after maybe 2 minutes. I think I need bigger coolers. Currently 2x18. Gonna step up to 3x18. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:59 PM
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Sounds about right where that boat would run with a set of 454 365HP mags. The stepped 32's tickle 80 with 425HP 496 HO's. My buddy's 32 with twin 310HP MPI 454's ran a hair under 70 if I recall.

Good to see you got it running . Some heads will wake those engines up.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:04 PM
  #160  
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Probably 100hp or so with AFRs and an HP1000...if the exhaust is okay
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