Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > General Q & A
Superchiller water flow testing >

Superchiller water flow testing

Notices

Superchiller water flow testing

Thread Tools
 
Old 05-02-2016, 02:28 PM
  #31  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: chicago
Posts: 11,332
Received 71 Likes on 39 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SB
Excuse my ignorance - how much fkin water volume do these small cores need ? This water demand is really sounding ludicrous.

Yes, I know, Roots blowes create heat.....but in no way the same amount a 598cid engine at full song pushing a condominium thru the water at 90-100MPH. I say this because the water flow discussed is surpassing what it akes to cool a big azz motor at big rpms. Remember, the same water going thru the motor has already gone thru the oil cooler....so, it's feeding both cooling systems. And now, we have this small core innercooler under a Roots supercharger that needs half the lake or ocean too cool it.

Uuugghhhh. LOL.
Pretty sure a typical mercruiser sea water pump, moves around 40-50 gallons per minute, nearly 3000 gallons per hour. The entire system is plumbed using 1.25 size line to pump, and same thru engine, coolers, etc. The water outlet lines to exhaust, are usually each 1 or 1 1/8.

Thats massive compared to a .610 diameter -12 fitting, that with city water pressure, can barely move 5 gallons of water per minute with no restrction.

I do get what you are saying though, at what point, is more water simply not helping cool the charge. The only person that can answer that, is someone who has adjusted the water psi to the core, and noted changes to the IAT temperatures. I believe eddie young has done this. Other than him, i dont know of anyone. Most just seem to look over the side of the boat and say "looks like enough water to me" .

I personally, think it would be VERY easy, to suck up a piece of chit, into the -12 pre strainer line, that could plug it very easily before it even gets to the strainer. I dont plan on driving 90mph with my head turned around watching the intercooler water flow. I do plan on having a iat gauge and psi gauge on my dash that i can look at though, in between watching water conditions in front of me.
MILD THUNDER is offline  
Old 05-02-2016, 02:35 PM
  #32  
SB
Registered
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On A Dirt Floor
Posts: 13,546
Received 3,115 Likes on 1,402 Posts
Default

I too would think the IAT gauge is the most important...especially when it comes to seeing how well the intercooler is working and/or doing it's job....or asking too much of it.

So, if IAT is good and water psi is not too high...life is good right ?

Main reason for my above response was seeing icded tak about a big massive thru hull. One of those that made my mind say "how much is too much." We definitely don't want to slow a boat down more than it has to,
SB is offline  
Old 05-02-2016, 03:12 PM
  #33  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: St. Pete Beach, FL
Posts: 3,574
Received 568 Likes on 340 Posts
Default

You could measure water temp in and out.
hogie roll is offline  
Old 05-02-2016, 04:58 PM
  #34  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: chicago
Posts: 11,332
Received 71 Likes on 39 Posts
Default

Had a good talk with Eddie Young today. According to him, he says every setup he does, before the boat even comes off the trailer, he has pre made lines/fittings that monitor the intercooler water pressure. He goes out, runs the boat, watches the pressure, and adjusts the pickup depth accordingly to get the pressure he wants.

As far as plumbing goes, he said he will typically do a 1" or 1.25 hose, feeding a strainer, then two -12 lines into the intercooler. Except on the whipple intercoolers, he has a manifold that joins has two -12 fittings that attach to the core, fed by a single -16 line from the strainer/pickup.

He also said he factors in horsepower. He said on a typical deal like an 871 on a 540 making 5 lbs of boost, things aren't as critical. Once you start spinning the blower harder, making more boost, the flow can become critical.

His basic thought was, if the intercooler has twin 3/4 inlets, and twin 3/4 outlets, why only feed them with a single -12 line. Obviously, a single -12 off the pickup, splitting into two -12 lines, isn't going to do any good. But, a 1.25" hose, or -16AN off the pickup to a strainer, or manifold like whipple sells, than you can split it to two -12's.
MILD THUNDER is offline  
Old 05-02-2016, 05:08 PM
  #35  
SB
Registered
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On A Dirt Floor
Posts: 13,546
Received 3,115 Likes on 1,402 Posts
Default

How big is the pick-up tube itself ?
SB is offline  
Old 05-02-2016, 05:11 PM
  #36  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: chicago
Posts: 11,332
Received 71 Likes on 39 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SB
How big is the pick-up tube itself ?
Depends. This style, has round 1.25" tube.

http://eddiemarine.com/shop/plumbing...-on-connection

Then there's this style
http://www.imcomarine.com/cal_store/...er-pickup.html

Or they make them where they neck down with a -12 fitting welded on the end of them, or you can get -16, 1.25 slip on, 1.25" pipe thread, many options
MILD THUNDER is offline  
Old 05-02-2016, 06:54 PM
  #37  
Registered
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: yorkville,il
Posts: 8,427
Received 87 Likes on 49 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
Now they offer high flow endcaps. Why?

http://teaguecustommarine.com/em0011...illet-end.html
my guess would be to make 224 dollars each on those that believe they need them.
mike tkach is offline  
Old 05-02-2016, 07:08 PM
  #38  
SB
Registered
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On A Dirt Floor
Posts: 13,546
Received 3,115 Likes on 1,402 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mike tkach
my guess would be to make 224 dollars each on those that believe they need them.
LOL.

My guess would be it takes longer to corrode.

Or will take more psi before it's gaskets will leak ?
SB is offline  
Old 05-02-2016, 07:27 PM
  #39  
Registered
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: chicago
Posts: 11,332
Received 71 Likes on 39 Posts
Default

Lot of guessing going on.

Ill stick to monitoring the Intake air temps and pressure inside the core when I get it in the water. I dont wanna guess that i have enough water flow, or what my intake temps are, or any of that information. I cant afford to guess , my pockets are shallow, and the boating season is short.

I highly doubt, keith eickert, blower shop, teague, whipple, and pf marine, are putting big water fittings on their intercoolers, because "it just isnt needed" or to make extra money .

Everybody said roots blowers make gobs of heat, and 200 degree temps are the norm. Dan and i decided to mount intake temp gauges and guess what we found, that theory didnt apply to his roots setup. 140 degrees when holding it wot on the water on a 85 degree day. A whopping 25 degrees cooler , than our buddys intercooled 1071 setup on the dyno. Then again, it had minimal water flow thru the intercooler on the dyno. If a 2,000 dollar intercooler, has 60 degree water thru it, and can only take out 25 degrees of air temp properly setup, in my opinion, it was a waste of time.

Everyone said that if he upped the boost, the temps will go up to. Went from 6psi to 8psi, temps stayed the same.

Everyone says you can crank the boost up with an intercooler. You can run more timing with an intercooler, you can do all this stuff with an intercooler, that you couldnt without one. Very few actually have any data to back that up though.

Example. If dans non intercooled setup has 140 deg air temps, and he bolts on an intercooler, and only gets to 125 degree air temps, not so sure id be betting on that 15 degree air temp change, as a green light to crank the boost and timing up . Of course, we could ignore the temp readings, go off what we heard, and more than likely, end up pulling the engines back out before they are even broken in.
MILD THUNDER is offline  
Old 05-02-2016, 07:35 PM
  #40  
Registered
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: yorkville,il
Posts: 8,427
Received 87 Likes on 49 Posts
Default

couple more things and i will shut up.i am not convinced that the puny core in teague,s chiller,same as ke, core or the blower shop core can move all the water two -12 lines can supply.i am aware that the blower shop sais 100 lbs is ok with their core,but i have had that core in my hands and no way would i trust it to 100 lbs.if i was going to run big boost and really needed to cool that much heat i would pass on all three brands that have been talked about and i would buy a couple of dennis parvy,s coolers or whipple,s biggest cooler but i sure don,t feel the need at the small boost that i run.i guess i,and all the others running low boost with teague,s pluming and no gauges are just plain stupid.do you really think you need a 1.25 dia hose and dual -12 lines to keep that little core cool,hell a 1.25 line cools my engine,oil&trans cooler plus a power steering cooler and the water temp exiting the engine is 110 deg.ok i am done,i gotta go to the outhouse and take a dump.
mike tkach is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.