Read my post #11 here, and click on the .pdf
http://forums.boatfreaks.org/showpos...9&postcount=11

These are the same built in advances on the Daytona Box, as they made the Crane Box, and then Crane stopped selling them as they went bankrpt back then and then Daytona sold direct and added a ton more features. A few places sell the box $50.00 cheaper. Don't forget to get the phased Thunderbolt rotor from them if you don't want to do it yourself. They ust charge $25 for the rotor phased.

I ran the HI-6M and you can pretty much run what ever gap you want, but why ? Anything over .040" and you really start chewing your cap, rotors, and wires. The larger you go, the faster this will happen...it's ust what happens when you crank up the juice on any system by increasing gaps.

SB - A larger gap allows a slightly leaner mixture and less likely to experience knock. I'm not talking .055" I'm talking .045-.048 which Thunderbolt wont do unless you want a mercruiser row boat, (too weak of spark voltage while cranking to start at this gap). Pre-ignition is the number one problem with boat engines pushing for performance, and increasing spark gap to a point is one of the keys to prevent it. A cap and wires periodically are a lot cheaper than pistons and blocks in my opinion.

Is this a wild motor? 14:1 compression?

He's going Borgie on ignitions I'm afraid.

Normal SBC build.

Nice SB...

No just a little over 10.1 Full disclosure as a teenager I used to build 13 cu. in 5hp briggs & stratton flatheads that turned 11,000 rpm and produced 25+ hp. To keep something like that together you take care of every detail. No reason not to produce perfection in every build.

Go carts I assume. Been there done that. Those alcohol builds are a riot. I'm running the pertronics on my 496's. They either came with or I ordered tune kit with weights and springs. Nice thing about them is once you dial them in to your application your done and not chasing ignition problems.