The 311 formula would run 68 with factory 420s and ran 70 to72 with roller cam upgrades. Last Friday I was able to hit high 70s with my winter upgrades.

Problem was the 800 carbs. One was lean, over 13:1 and the other rich at like 10.2:1. Switching carbs from one motor to the other, the problem stayed with the carbs. The are not reacting to jetting changes. Went 4 up on one 4 down on the other and they still aren't right and are 8 jet sizes apart.

I'm thinking of trying AED 950s but am now hearing people don't like the 950. Others say they will be close out of the box.....

Nice speed gain :drink:

You've definitely got some chit going on with your carbs without a doubt. Perhaps not ideal however should be more than adequate on your engines. 850's may be a better choice but I'd be tearing into those 800's with rebuild kits. Your call of course. Carbs are like any other parts on an engine. lot of choices but set up right your options are endless. Btw good work with winter mods. Sounds like you gained roughly 100 plus a side. Good work. Now get your AFR's snuffed up and gain a little more.

Thats an interesting article. Especially in regards to what the carbs were really flowing at a given RPM.

Has anyone seen an HP Carb without adjustable air bleeds? The HP 950's that I have, are not adjustable, I've never seen that before.

AED wet flows there carbs. It should be very close out of the box with maybe a change in main jets. The 950hp Holley carbs take a lot more than a change in main jet to get them right.

I think I will call them and talk to their tech guy.

AED = nice carb , built to spec ended up in size on power valve , an all jets , duall plane small block , chev ,

Something else to consider, a drag race or street carb, isnt really the same as a true marine carb. What a carb does on a dyno pull, is very close to what a drag carb is doing in its application.

Now, a marine carb, that has to operate at much larger throttle position percentage while cruising, the power valve circuitry, and so on, can make a difference.

I know i always seem like im pushing quick fuels, but i do so for a reason. Its because of what you get for the money.

Corrosion resistant diamond coating (most carbs look like crap after a while)
Billet baseplates
Billet metering blocks
Tuneable air bleeds
Tuneable power valve restrictors/jets
Tuneable idle feed restrictors
Tuneable linkage
Tuneable emulsion bleeds
Large sight glasses

Cost 650 dollars.

Thats cheaper than holleys old 850 marine carbs that have no billet parts, press in bleeds, press in idle feeds, pcvrs, and so on. I have those old 850 holleys, and while they are a good carb, ive had to drill out idle feed restrictors to get a decent idle afr, and its simply not as tuneable . Ive also ditched the stock bowls for aluminum bowls with large sight glasses, got tired of gas spilling on my painted blowers, and a bunch of other stuff. Id stil much rather work with them though, over a ****tty nickerson carb, or some of the other carbs ive seen that have been botched up. With everyone running widebands these days, it really pays to have a carb you can easily tune yourself. Changing main jets alone doesnt always get you what you want.

MILD, which Quick Fuel carb are you talking about? Looks like they all cost over 800 dollars? Would you mind posting a link? Thanks for your input