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Old 09-01-2016 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ezstriper
few years ago built a 489, with a 177 blower, Tom from weiand helped with setup, had a new eddie marine H/P flame arrester, 1st time out made 0 boost, was checking everything, found nothing. Called Tom, told me to remove arrester, popped right to 6psi ! so just because they look cool and say H/P does not mean crap ! Articfriends did a bunch of dyno test using EFI arresters and the results were very interesting.
I had some fairly large K&N ones I've had since 88 and now on my gibson, stuck one of those on and still had a tad over 5psi, many say they are junk but ???? so lots to be gained with just these...good luck keep us posted
Agreed! The K&N 14" by 3" tall lost 1 horsepower on the dyno compared to the dyno hat.
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Old 09-01-2016 | 08:36 PM
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What I like about the Gaffrig vs just about all the others is you can easily take them apart and remove the screens. Using my air compressor and hand method I used on the HP's, these flow better. A lot more air comes through, however that is a pretty rude way to test, this weekend will be the real test.
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Old 09-01-2016 | 08:55 PM
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It's actually a horrible test. LOL.
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Old 09-05-2016 | 10:54 AM
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i've used the shampoo and hand method !
how and when does the air compressor come in to play?
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Old 09-06-2016 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by outonsafari
i've used the shampoo and hand method !
how and when does the air compressor come in to play?
Almost afraid to ask, but what is the shampoo and hand method?
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Old 09-06-2016 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by GETTINBYE
Almost afraid to ask, but what is the shampoo and hand method?
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Old 09-06-2016 | 09:06 PM
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Ha- I'm also curious what the shampoo and hand test is. Anyway, This project is beginning to get old. Okay, it got old a long time ago. The new flame arrestors are too tall to close the hatch all the way. I'm sure if I use a shorter carb spacer they will be fine, but I forgot the Gaffrig arrestors are around 3/4" higher than advertised due to their base. I also have a fuel issue with one of the engines. I thought maybe it was a fuel filter, but nothing changed when I put a new one on. Basically the boat runs fine until 3/4 throttle, then one engine runs out of fuel. You can feel the engine dragging the boat down, It feels like something is in the secondary needle and seat and is restricting fuel flow. I had friends up all weekend again, so I couldn't dig into it. I may or may not get to it this year. At this point the next time I go up to Michigan I need to pull docks and boat lifts. If we have a nice fall, I see what is going on. I'm starting to feel like Full Force with the issues he was having this summer!
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Old 09-07-2016 | 02:04 PM
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if you still have anti-siphoning valves at tank ck there, very restrictive and get get clogged easily
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Old 09-07-2016 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ezstriper
if you still have anti-siphoning valves at tank ck there, very restrictive and get get clogged easily
Those are long gone. When I bought my boat it sat unused for well over a decade. The fuel inside the tank created rock like sediment in it, and created all sorts of havoc the first year I owned it. Eventually I cleaned the tank. I'm pretty sure the issue is in the carb, but you never know for sure until it's been ruled out.
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Old 09-07-2016 | 05:24 PM
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[QUOTE=endeavour32;4479294]Those are long gone. When I bought my boat it sat unused for well over a decade. The fuel inside the tank created rock like sediment in it, and created all sorts of havoc the first year I owned it. Eventually I cleaned the tank. I'm pretty sure the issue is in the carb, but you never know for sure until it's been ruled out.[/QUOTE

Hey mike what's the difference in rpm btwn engines. Before pull boat at least swap carbs and ck for WFO throttle blade position. Air / overflow vent clear on the one side? Mud bees love getting their janky azzes all up inside those. You'll get figured out. Like you said short trip with lots to do doesn't help matters any though.
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