Seems to me if you run higher HP engines at high RPM for an extended time, managing the oil temp is worth the investment.

UPDATE:
After years of messing with it the answer was staring me in the face the whole time and it not only solved my oil temp issue it solved my oil pressure issues.
All the oil lines are -12 except for the oil cooler lines for some unknown reason they were -10AN
Basically as soon as the oil started to get hot the oil stat started to open and reroute the oil thru the smaller lines causing a retriction, this is why my oil pressure would develop a 30psi delta between filter and block.

Oil temp read great at the filter because the oil was getting cooled off but not enough volume was making it thru the cooler to drop the temps in the pan.

Changed out cooler lines to -12AN and now oil temps after cooler are 150-180* and about 40* more in the pan and pressure no longer drops off.


Runs like a champ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c869wJXTlJE

I love stories with a happy ending!

in 2002 people told me I was crazy/didn't need -12 oils and full sweep fittings.even the guy I worked for.I knew in my heart,more flow and bigger oil coolers(w/ thermostats) was a must for anything over 650hp(my old 454's).kept basically the same set up for the whipple 490's now.now I have huge oil filters.
hopefully others will follow suit w/ what you have done here.good job

When it comes to Fluid Conduit , Be it Water or Oil . Bigger is always better , less pumping losses , more volume , reduced heat , reduced pressure drop.
Some of the napcar engines have -16 scavenge lines from the pans , -12 for main pressure , and dual -20 for tank return. Always made more power on the dynos and could reduce oil pressure , because we didn't have large Delta P's . The Toyotas only run about 45psi at 9000!

I had similar issues years back. The previous owner had rigged my engines with -8 oil lines to the filter and cooler. Oil psi at the dash, was always around 50psi, and would fall off at higher rpm.

When I redid the engines ,i went will all -12 stuff and full flow fittings. Problem solved.

I wanna say that in a psi application like this, a -12 will flow nearly twice as many gpm than a -10?

When I spoke an engineer at Barnes while designing my dry sump system, he was adamant that -12 be the minimum oil lines used. I have -12 on the scavaging lines, cooler and t-stat lines and one -16 supply line to the pump with two -16 return lines to the tank. All fittings are -12 o ring or 3/4" NPT minimunm.

I had a member here say I was wasting money on -12 when -10 would be just fine. I listened to the engineer at Barnes.

Also, while proper fittings and hose is expensive, in my opinion, it's cheaper than internal engine components.

Great update, great info.

Excellent, everyone is on the same page.
CP doesn`t even make these in -10 so that tells me something.

http://www.cpperformance.com/p-14609...r-fitting.aspx


I wouldn`t have thought that a -12 outflows a -10 by that much but as Joe had found it`s almost double. 14GPM vs. 28gpm . The thermofilter uses 28gpm filters, so why would anyone use -10AN

-10 vs. -12






After a hot lap before
(oil temp second from right)




After a hot lap after

I was going to ask your oil pressure. but I read to this point first. I would like to ask Mike about this and see if he has seen this.
20 pounds oil pressure can reduce 20 deg. oil temp. ??
The reason I say this is my new motor I built has everything the same as the other motor except; New pistons custom forged to resemble stock and more volume oil pump. It runs 20 deg cooler oil temp than the old motor. New motor 50-75 psi old motor 30 55 psi.( according to the gauge) I am getting 180 at deg. cruising on the new motor and 200 deg. at cruising on the old motor for oil temp.
This leads me to believe more oil pressure means lower oil temps.. Correct??

PS I 'm looking to freshen my old motor with new heads and pistons cam etc like the new one.