Fogging\stabilizing my carb'd 7.4L
10-01-2002, 01:56 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Fogging\stabilizing my carb'd 7.4L
last year i just drained the water, ran some A\F through my motor, and plugged in a heater\dehumidifier. in the spring, i changed the oil, drained the A\F, and she fired up and ran fine all summer.
1. what's the best way to fog my motor and what does it do for it?
2. how exactly should I stabilize my fuel?
sorry if this seems second nature to most of you, but i'm still a little green.
thanks.
Ned
1. what's the best way to fog my motor and what does it do for it?
2. how exactly should I stabilize my fuel?
sorry if this seems second nature to most of you, but i'm still a little green.
thanks.
Ned
10-01-2002, 07:03 AM
#2
Registered
blue64drop,
Pick up an Operators Manual for your engine/drive combo at a Mercruiser dealer. Everything you need to know about winterizing is in there plus a lot more about maintainance and operation.
Pick up an Operators Manual for your engine/drive combo at a Mercruiser dealer. Everything you need to know about winterizing is in there plus a lot more about maintainance and operation.
10-01-2002, 07:54 AM
#3
Registered
fogging is to coat the cylinder walls and moving parts with oil so that condensation does not change into a rust ring at the piston rings. (potentially causing compression drop and excessive oil consumption) and protect other moving components.
many friends of mine say... i just put it away and it runs fine..... but it is a long term, wear issue. many don't fog, and things may be fine. but fogging can only help preserve your investment. I suppose this fogging can also help in next years startup too, kind of like pre oilers that guys put on their expensive motors to "preserve" them. 80% of wear occurs at startup. especially after sitting for 1/2 a year.
"Stabil" in the gas is alchohol. alcohol absorbes water molecules. this will contain any water that is in the fuel.
don't forget to change outdrive fluid. slight water leaks can accumulate through the season and turn this clear green fluid into a Mc Saite Patric's day shake. if it is milkey, then a seal is bad
and tricle charge the batteries once in a while, their life will be greatly increased.
I'm hoping for one more time out here in Michigan before doin the above list.
many friends of mine say... i just put it away and it runs fine..... but it is a long term, wear issue. many don't fog, and things may be fine. but fogging can only help preserve your investment. I suppose this fogging can also help in next years startup too, kind of like pre oilers that guys put on their expensive motors to "preserve" them. 80% of wear occurs at startup. especially after sitting for 1/2 a year.
"Stabil" in the gas is alchohol. alcohol absorbes water molecules. this will contain any water that is in the fuel.
don't forget to change outdrive fluid. slight water leaks can accumulate through the season and turn this clear green fluid into a Mc Saite Patric's day shake. if it is milkey, then a seal is bad
and tricle charge the batteries once in a while, their life will be greatly increased.
I'm hoping for one more time out here in Michigan before doin the above list.
10-01-2002, 10:45 AM
#4
Gold Member
Gold Member
I'll add the proper amount of stabilizer to a full tank of fresh fuel, run it in the water for an hour to be sure the stabilized fuel is in the carb then put it on the trailer.
When I'm home I'll change the oil, run it again, fog it, then shut her down, drain all water from engine and manifolds leaving the drains open. If I don't fog it I'll pull the spark plugs and squirt oil into the cylinders, crank it over, with out the plugs, to distribute the oil then loosely reinstall the pulgs.
I'll disconnect the batteries, place two 100W light fixtures (for freezing nights) in the engine compartment and run an extension cord to the outside, cover her up and say goodnight.
I don't change the drive fluid at this time, only check it for water. I'll change it in the spring. If water is present, I'll change it right away.
One thing to remember, never, ever, store your boat with the drive up or in trailer position. Water will collect in the prop and hub area, possibly freezing and the bellows will last longer from not being stretched.
When I'm home I'll change the oil, run it again, fog it, then shut her down, drain all water from engine and manifolds leaving the drains open. If I don't fog it I'll pull the spark plugs and squirt oil into the cylinders, crank it over, with out the plugs, to distribute the oil then loosely reinstall the pulgs.
I'll disconnect the batteries, place two 100W light fixtures (for freezing nights) in the engine compartment and run an extension cord to the outside, cover her up and say goodnight.
I don't change the drive fluid at this time, only check it for water. I'll change it in the spring. If water is present, I'll change it right away.
One thing to remember, never, ever, store your boat with the drive up or in trailer position. Water will collect in the prop and hub area, possibly freezing and the bellows will last longer from not being stretched.
Last edited by Iggy; 10-01-2002 at 10:50 AM.
10-02-2002, 10:05 AM
#7
Gold Member
Gold Member
It has and does get down to and below freezing at times.
Call me paranoid, and I am, but I worry about the block or anything else cracking. I'm from Jersey and have seen what cracked blocks, split radiators look like.
If something like that happened because I didn't prep it right, I'd never hear the end of it.
Call me paranoid, and I am, but I worry about the block or anything else cracking. I'm from Jersey and have seen what cracked blocks, split radiators look like.
If something like that happened because I didn't prep it right, I'd never hear the end of it.
10-02-2002, 04:35 PM
#8
Registered
Winterization means different things to different people.Thats apparent just from this thread.
Pumping antifreeze into your engine will not necessarily protect it from freezing if its done without the thermostat open.You'll fill the raw water pump,the manifolds and risers but the motor will still have water in it.The only sure fire way of protecting the block is to drain it,remove the thermostat housing,pour straight antifreeze in untill some runs out.Then reinstall the drains and continue filling with antifreeze until the block is full.Install a new T stat(they are cheap enough) and gasket and torque the bolts back down.Drain the manifolds and pour antifreeze into the coolant hoses from the t stat end.Remove the hose from the raw water pump to the oil cooler and drain and fill it too.Remove the hose from the transom plate to the raw water pump and drain and fill it.Remember to retighten ALL the clamps.
An unfogged motor stored in a place with wide temperature and moisture variations can develop rust on the face of any open valve.This can lead to burned valves shortly after start up in spring.
Prior to doing the cooling system,go fill the fuel tank(s)with fresh fuel and the recommended amount of stabilizer.Hook up the old garden hose and run her up to full temperature in gear.Shift it back to neutral and shut it off.Change the engine oil and filter at this time.Remove and drain the water seperater and fill with a 50/50 mix of gas and stabilizer.Replace it and refire the engine.Now is the time to fog it down.Run it at fast idle and empty half a can of storage spray into the carb(do not put your face over the carb)slow it to base idle and empty the rest of the can into the carb stalling the engine if possible,if it won't stall,shut it off just before the can is empty.Kill the ignition,then empty the can and crank the engine over a couple times.Remove the fuel seperator and replace it with a new one(ready for spring).
Inspect the drive belts and slack off the adjustments.This prevents the belts from taking a set in their shape and extends their life.
If you are a fanatic,remove the valve covers and de adjust all the valves too.
Drain and replace the gear oil while its still warm.This insures against any water damage to the drive and its ready for spring as well.Now pull the drive and inspect and grease or replace the universal joints.Inspect the input shaft seal on the drive for leakage too.Inspect the bellows.Remount the drive,pull the batteries and bring em inside,they like it warm
Now follow the steps to protect the block and you are all set for the first run of the spring.After the first run,change the spark plugs and you're good for the season.
Pumping antifreeze into your engine will not necessarily protect it from freezing if its done without the thermostat open.You'll fill the raw water pump,the manifolds and risers but the motor will still have water in it.The only sure fire way of protecting the block is to drain it,remove the thermostat housing,pour straight antifreeze in untill some runs out.Then reinstall the drains and continue filling with antifreeze until the block is full.Install a new T stat(they are cheap enough) and gasket and torque the bolts back down.Drain the manifolds and pour antifreeze into the coolant hoses from the t stat end.Remove the hose from the raw water pump to the oil cooler and drain and fill it too.Remove the hose from the transom plate to the raw water pump and drain and fill it.Remember to retighten ALL the clamps.
An unfogged motor stored in a place with wide temperature and moisture variations can develop rust on the face of any open valve.This can lead to burned valves shortly after start up in spring.
Prior to doing the cooling system,go fill the fuel tank(s)with fresh fuel and the recommended amount of stabilizer.Hook up the old garden hose and run her up to full temperature in gear.Shift it back to neutral and shut it off.Change the engine oil and filter at this time.Remove and drain the water seperater and fill with a 50/50 mix of gas and stabilizer.Replace it and refire the engine.Now is the time to fog it down.Run it at fast idle and empty half a can of storage spray into the carb(do not put your face over the carb)slow it to base idle and empty the rest of the can into the carb stalling the engine if possible,if it won't stall,shut it off just before the can is empty.Kill the ignition,then empty the can and crank the engine over a couple times.Remove the fuel seperator and replace it with a new one(ready for spring).
Inspect the drive belts and slack off the adjustments.This prevents the belts from taking a set in their shape and extends their life.
If you are a fanatic,remove the valve covers and de adjust all the valves too.
Drain and replace the gear oil while its still warm.This insures against any water damage to the drive and its ready for spring as well.Now pull the drive and inspect and grease or replace the universal joints.Inspect the input shaft seal on the drive for leakage too.Inspect the bellows.Remount the drive,pull the batteries and bring em inside,they like it warm
Now follow the steps to protect the block and you are all set for the first run of the spring.After the first run,change the spark plugs and you're good for the season.
