Detonated piston & blew head gasket. Now what?
#31
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I'll take the heads to a shop if they need resurfaced or the guides are worn or they need seat work. All of that was just done/checked two seasons ago so I'm trying to stay optimistic. LOL
Any recommendations on some reasonably priced valves for what I have? I'm down for spending money where/if it's needed but this is also a mild build and I really don't run it hard. Not looking to squeeze every ounce of performance out of it and using the absolute best parts if they're not going to make much difference. I rarely run for more than 20 minutes at a time. From dock to our favorite beach or island is under 20 minutes. And when we're tubing it only takes me about 5 minutes to flip the kids off the tube. LOL I rarely run WOT either. Was just doing it to test a new prop.
Any recommendations on some reasonably priced valves for what I have? I'm down for spending money where/if it's needed but this is also a mild build and I really don't run it hard. Not looking to squeeze every ounce of performance out of it and using the absolute best parts if they're not going to make much difference. I rarely run for more than 20 minutes at a time. From dock to our favorite beach or island is under 20 minutes. And when we're tubing it only takes me about 5 minutes to flip the kids off the tube. LOL I rarely run WOT either. Was just doing it to test a new prop.
Just do your research and you'll be fine. If you have a machine/speed shop nearby have them ck block, rods etc before reassembly. Over time rods stretch and may need resizing. It's relatively inexpensive.
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I'd get a head gasket and piston combination that nets you a .040 quench. Proper quench, fuel, timing, loading and temp go along way to staving off detonation. Then when it's together run the shorter prop first. If it makes the engine over speed go up, but not til you know you won't torque load the engine.
I have a 9.85:1 iron head forged flat top 383 that does fine that way.
I do not have a wideband either, but I just checked my plugs and they are lean, so I'm jetting up before my next run. I'm probably a little lucky/safe because my ignition has knock retard.
If your compression will end up much over 9.6:1 perhaps get some spark plugs that are one range colder. The colder plugs resist detonation.
I have a 9.85:1 iron head forged flat top 383 that does fine that way.
I do not have a wideband either, but I just checked my plugs and they are lean, so I'm jetting up before my next run. I'm probably a little lucky/safe because my ignition has knock retard.
If your compression will end up much over 9.6:1 perhaps get some spark plugs that are one range colder. The colder plugs resist detonation.
Last edited by NHGuy; 08-24-2016 at 08:08 PM.
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the question........Detonated piston & blew head gasket. Now what?
simple
4l whippled efi bb,say in the 580ci range. end of story.go big or go home.
simple
4l whippled efi bb,say in the 580ci range. end of story.go big or go home.
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I'd get a head gasket and piston combination that nets you a .040 quench. Proper quench, fuel, timing, loading and temp go along way to staving off detonation. Then when it's together run the shorter prop first. If it makes the engine over speed go up, but not til you know you won't torque load the engine.
I have a 9.85:1 iron head forged flat top 383 that does fine that way.
I do not have a wideband either, but I just checked my plugs and they are lean, so I'm jetting up before my next run. I'm probably a little lucky/safe because my ignition has knock retard.
If your compression will end up much over 9.6:1 perhaps get some spark plugs that are one range colder. The colder plugs resist detonation.
I have a 9.85:1 iron head forged flat top 383 that does fine that way.
I do not have a wideband either, but I just checked my plugs and they are lean, so I'm jetting up before my next run. I'm probably a little lucky/safe because my ignition has knock retard.
If your compression will end up much over 9.6:1 perhaps get some spark plugs that are one range colder. The colder plugs resist detonation.
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All valve stems are .342 to .3425 (.343 is new)
Valve stem clearance is .002 to .0025
Heads are flat. Can’t fit a .002 feeler between a machined straight edge. Can’t even fit a .0015.
I hit the intake seats with a brass wheel on the dremel but it disintegrated before I could get to the exhausts. First pic is the one that blew up.
I stuck a flashlight into the ports with the valves seated and there was some light that came though. Not much but there was some. So, I'm thinking I just finish cleaning everything up and lap the valves and heads/valves are done. Also, since I'm running a bigger cam, going to pull the pressed in studs and replace with screw in's while heads are off.
Valve stem clearance is .002 to .0025
Heads are flat. Can’t fit a .002 feeler between a machined straight edge. Can’t even fit a .0015.
I hit the intake seats with a brass wheel on the dremel but it disintegrated before I could get to the exhausts. First pic is the one that blew up.
I stuck a flashlight into the ports with the valves seated and there was some light that came though. Not much but there was some. So, I'm thinking I just finish cleaning everything up and lap the valves and heads/valves are done. Also, since I'm running a bigger cam, going to pull the pressed in studs and replace with screw in's while heads are off.
Last edited by Gannz; 08-25-2016 at 03:48 PM.