Detonated piston & blew head gasket. Now what?
#41
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If this was a 6-10k+ engine like many of you are used to dealing with, I'd do forged pistons, inconel valves, zero deck the block, get the quench to .040, etc. That's all very sound advise and I appreciate and agree with all of it, if the original investment is in that price range or if you do your boating in extreme conditions, long distances, etc. But this is a $1000 rebuilt long block that is only used on a medium sized lake less than 1 mile from my house. It would still be running if I hadn't messed up on the tune and/or overloaded the prop. Just doesn't make sense to me to spend 1500+ on pistons, valves, machine work, etc. when I can get another rebuilt long block for 1k if I have a catastrophic valve or piston failure. If I had to do it again, I'd probably get a junker SBC and have it machined how I wanted and assemble it myself with the parts I wanted instead of going with a rebuilt long block.
Last edited by Gannz; 08-25-2016 at 11:52 AM.
#42
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Hey just do what works for you and your budget and what you use it for. The very least we say "told you so". But I'm sure you'll be fine for your use. When you start building an engine for hard running long distance runs as well as long jevity then it's a different ball game. But sounds like you use it for more of a runabout so get it together and get back on the beer and beech. Don't blame you.
Before I started deck mods and engines in current restoration project I ran to Wisconsin WOT at 4,700 rpm (70 plus miles) and never let off throttles once. 454/330's. (360 hours on engines) Basic truck engines. Thought for sure I'd send a rod through the pan on one or the other but nope. That was with no oil coolers to boot.
New builds for project got pretty pricey however I knew it going into it. Not my first trip around or across the lake.
Before I started deck mods and engines in current restoration project I ran to Wisconsin WOT at 4,700 rpm (70 plus miles) and never let off throttles once. 454/330's. (360 hours on engines) Basic truck engines. Thought for sure I'd send a rod through the pan on one or the other but nope. That was with no oil coolers to boot.
New builds for project got pretty pricey however I knew it going into it. Not my first trip around or across the lake.
#43
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If this was a 6-10k+ engine like many of you are used to dealing with, I'd do forged pistons, inconel valves, zero deck the block, get the quench to .040, etc. That's all very sound advise and I appreciate and agree with all of it, if the original investment is in that price range or if you do your boating in extreme conditions, long distances, etc. But this is a $1000 rebuilt long block that is only used on a medium sized lake less than 1 mile from my house. It would still be running if I hadn't messed up on the tune and/or overloaded the prop. Just doesn't make sense to me to spend 1500+ on pistons, valves, machine work, etc. when I can get another rebuilt long block for 1k if I have a catastrophic valve or piston failure. If I had to do it again, I'd probably get a junker SBC and have it machined how I wanted and assemble it myself with the parts I wanted instead of going with a rebuilt long block.
You question is like going to a 5 star chef convention and asking how to make a twinky......And wondering why everyone is giving you tiramisu recipes...
#44
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I expected some very solid advice from experienced, helpful, and knowledgeable members who have similar interests as mine. I also expected to get some grief from condescending, sarcastic trolls. Pretty much the same expectations I have with any forum. LOL
#45
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Hey, we earned the right to be sarcastic.
But seriously, everyone know you decide what you decide on your own!
I know I wish you well and hope you put together the most benefits for your dollars and time.
But seriously, everyone know you decide what you decide on your own!
I know I wish you well and hope you put together the most benefits for your dollars and time.
#47
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Don't want to get too far off topic or give the wrong impression. This is a great forum. Every time I google anything about performance or issues with my SBC or Alpha, this forum has the answers. Any time I post a question/topic I learn a great deal. This and DIYMA are my two favorite forums. You guys really know your chit.
If it were up to just me I'd probably just have swapped the one piston and honed that one cylinder. Because of everyone's advise I'm going to replace all pistons with the better KB performance, all rings with speed pro moly cast, get all cylinders honed at the shop, and replace the exhaust valve from the cylinder that detonated. I cleaned it up and she's looking a little rough. If I didn't learn about the high, sustained temps they're subject too, I would have probably just thrown it back in there. And I'm going to install a wideband, back off the timing, and start running higher octane.
And I'm leaning toward a 383.
If it were up to just me I'd probably just have swapped the one piston and honed that one cylinder. Because of everyone's advise I'm going to replace all pistons with the better KB performance, all rings with speed pro moly cast, get all cylinders honed at the shop, and replace the exhaust valve from the cylinder that detonated. I cleaned it up and she's looking a little rough. If I didn't learn about the high, sustained temps they're subject too, I would have probably just thrown it back in there. And I'm going to install a wideband, back off the timing, and start running higher octane.
And I'm leaning toward a 383.
#48
small craft warning ! ! ! . . . . . :d
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Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
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10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#49
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Tune it right. make sure cooling system is working right, and jam the throttle thru the dashboard. It will live.
Last edited by SB; 08-25-2016 at 10:12 PM.
#50
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If this was a 6-10k+ engine like many of you are used to dealing with, I'd do forged pistons, inconel valves, zero deck the block, get the quench to .040, etc. That's all very sound advise and I appreciate and agree with all of it, if the original investment is in that price range or if you do your boating in extreme conditions, long distances, etc. But this is a $1000 rebuilt long block that is only used on a medium sized lake less than 1 mile from my house. It would still be running if I hadn't messed up on the tune and/or overloaded the prop. Just doesn't make sense to me to spend 1500+ on pistons, valves, machine work, etc. when I can get another rebuilt long block for 1k if I have a catastrophic valve or piston failure. If I had to do it again, I'd probably get a junker SBC and have it machined how I wanted and assemble it myself with the parts I wanted instead of going with a rebuilt long block.