4500 series intake that also has 4150 bolt pattern?
#21
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I'd think your heads are more than capable of supporting whatever power you make. Aside from any repair they might need are you sure the money wouldn't be better spent elsewhere? Both the intakes were port matched to the heads but there wasn't any type of flow testing done on mine.
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Straight bottoms and flat decks
Straight bottoms and flat decks
Last edited by bck; 10-07-2016 at 09:20 PM.
#22
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Can't spend money elsewhere until these are right, once that happens I'm good for a while and will do small stiff to boat... Making this a rocket is not the goal just mid 70's is about all I will get anyway unless I got nuts, at that point I'm buying a gun...
#23
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I mean spending money elsewhere on engine/ exhaust to get the power you're looking for. The heads should be pretty good without any massaging.
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Straight bottoms and flat decks
Straight bottoms and flat decks
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That will follow, there is a stopping point for this hull for me, mid 70's will be fine, mainly due to TRS limits, if I need more power at that point it gets boost and exhaust wont matter much, unless I find a nice set of stellings at a deal I am stuck with what I have.... I will spend money on blowers before brand new stellings, would be cheaper...
As far as heads go, true flow numbers are not what they advertise, he's going to make them equal, and touch up anything needed, then match intakes to them...
As far as heads go, true flow numbers are not what they advertise, he's going to make them equal, and touch up anything needed, then match intakes to them...
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timing isn't locked, I have springs, that being said when I need to replace ignition parts later that will be option, but right now I gotta deal with what I have $ adds up, so I do what I can at the time, this stuff is all done cash no credit..
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I agree with this for the most part. The best bang for the buck with cylinder heads is a good valve job from a good head shop. The partially and fully cnc'd heads still need some blending work on either side of the valve seat. A good shop charges in the neighborhood of $5-$600 for a valve job and the blending work is included in the price. I don't care who's cnc'd head you buy and how much you paid for them the cnc machine can only do so good and some minor hand work need done before and after the valve seats. Oddly enough this is one of the most critical areas of the cylinder heads. So, if you spend $4,000+ on a set of heads guess what the most important part isn't touched and they need more work...
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yes, my buddy handling the situation now is the same that did Vintage's engine, and many others for local guys.... I trust him and that's the first thing he wanted was the head to do exactly that, and go from there...
I agree with this for the most part. The best bang for the buck with cylinder heads is a good valve job from a good head shop. The partially and fully cnc'd heads still need some blending work on either side of the valve seat. A good shop charges in the neighborhood of $5-$600 for a valve job and the blending work is included in the price. I don't care who's cnc'd head you buy and how much you paid for them the cnc machine can only do so good and some minor hand work need done before and after the valve seats. Oddly enough this is one of the most critical areas of the cylinder heads. So, if you spend $4,000+ on a set of heads guess what the most important part isn't touched and they need more work...