I don't think it's an issue. Never launched with peeps in it. The moment of failure was several hours post launch...Those risers may be addressed anyway once we check/know the cam specs...IF the cam even survives.

Finally had my guy get a look at my motor...looks like cam, lifter, rockers, pushrods are the worst...pistons and cylinder walls looks good. Will look at bottom end closer tomorrow. Knowing I want to dial back the cam to stay within the means of my EMI Thunder short aluminum riser exhaust and Corsa Captain's Call, does this cam and lifter kit from comp look good to you guys?

http://www.cpperformance.com/p-11596...ifter-kit.aspx

Block still has BOTH filter by-pass valves in place...not sure if they were the original crate motor by-passes but will get that corrected.

Do yourself a favor and ditch both of the bypass valves. The one under the nipple can just be removed. The one in the filter pad must be plugged. You can either tap the hole with a 1/2" NPT tap or knock in a 13/16" plug. If you have a 30# differential that opens the valve, it's probably from a plugged up oil filter. At that point, who gives a chit. THe engine is trashed and that bypass plug isn't going to help.
Eddie

Great...expecting the bottom end bad news today. Surprising that the cylinder walls and pistons look ok from the top? Wow, 2 previous rebuilds (2 previous owners) of the same Crate engine and no one discovered the original "sin".

I'm hoping the last rebuild left the center by-pass in (not great/not catastrophic) and knew to replace the outer by-pass with the 30# one. This is like finally getting the cancer diagnosis BUT at least you know why you were sick ��...Time to fix it either way.

OK, it looks like I got lucky. Pan off all looks good on the surface. Found the residue of the rocker ball shrapnel in the pan. He said many others appeared to be headed for the same fate. The mystery cam appears to be a bad regrind that has a 224-232-12 hand engraved on it, but it is trashed. So I need a new cam, lifters, springs, rockers, and redo the heads. He has a barely run takeout cam and lifters from what appears to be the 450/ 502. Here is a picture of the numbers on it.
. It would still have an exhaust duration of 230, exceeding the exhaust recommended <225...
Does the Comp kit I linked above PLUS the Scorpion 4014 endurance rockers, although about $1500, look like a wise kit investment to you guys?

So this is where I'm at...On the road to recovery/reliability.

Some facts:
1) The wrong 11# by-pass valves, in fact were still in place...corrected...center removed altogether &offset one replace with the 30#.
2) The mystery cam had a lift of .600 and when coupled with ****ty springs and rockers (Scorpion 4014's and BeeHives going back in) + too many RPM's contributed (likely) by the small 19p Mirage+ prop. I'll be trying out a Bravo I 22p prop when I get back on the lake (picking it up this weekend @ the Boat Show)...propping to a more conservative rpm with a full load.
3) The old design EMI Thunder (wet joint) has been converted to dry joint (welded) and should (hopefully) work fine with the mellowed stockish cam (.211/.230/112/.540 Lift)...
4) I've had Corsa rebuild my diverters with new solenoids, flappers, and wiring harness to get the Captain's call back to operational to allow better WOT breathing (had been 100% forced through the prop while using V6 exhaust elbows).
5) I'm replacing the 25 year old oil lines with Russell ProClassic II hose along with their full flow swivel capable fittings. I found a new Merc oil cooler which should work fine with the stock 502HO motor. I suspect here could have been at least 4 rebuilds in their service life.
6) The new oil plumbing will have a new 215 degree oil cooler stat which will help get up to temp in the often cold lake environment up here. I'll work an oil temp gauge in somewhere.
7) I'm willing to give the existing Edelbrock 1410/750cfm carb another shot, along with a new K&N flame arrestor setup.
8) Replaced the seized up oil pump...the bottom end was fine.

Fingers Crossed...Thanks for the help OSO.

That sounds great! It looks like you've sorted out the devils very well.

Been a loooong winter. can't wait to run it.

Finally 1sr run on the lake, typing this while anchored in the 70 degree sunshine. My initial concern
Is 65+ psi Oil Pressure until the oil temp reached the 210 degrees to open the oil thermostat circuit and through the cooler. At that point oil pressure fluctuates normally between 20
& 45. Going to chill a while limiting the run time today until I'm sure of the situation. Don't know what normal is yet.

Engine looks great.

Did the engine get run on a dyno or stand before being installed in the boat?

Oil issues should be investigated immediately.

Post up all info you have concerning the rebuild and the parts that lowered the horsepower from the original crate motor.
Deliberately loosing horsepower in your 502 may get your man card revoked here but I get the reliability thing.

Are you saying that you have run the engine a few times and the oil pressure goes from 65+psi cold then down to 20 psi hot
and then back up to 45 psi after it cools a bit?