Offshoreonly.com - Good oil thermostats??

Offshoreonly.com (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/)

- General Q & A (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q-20/)

- - Good oil thermostats?? (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/344678-good-oil-thermostats.html)

So similar, I may have just wasted money on stats I didn't need...

Quote:

Originally Posted by endeavour32 (Post 4550344)

If I'm remembering right, I think the most I saw was 215, mine open at 210. My water thermostats open at 140 and I want to say the engines are typically at 150 degrees.

Do you have Merc recirculating pump set up or cross-over's ?

With recirculating pump system it is much easier to keep water and oil temps in control and more consistent.....when in the North.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SB (Post 4550350)

Do you have Merc recirculating pump set up or cross-over's ?

With recirculating pump system it is much easier to keep water and oil temps in control and more consistent.....when in the North.

Circulating pump. I ran a crossover once and it was a pain to get any consistency with the temps. I will happily give up 8 hp to have consistent water temps.

I have used Canton 22-480 on my engines for 8 years , they perform flawlessly, they are mounted down beside the engines nice & clean fit.

my motor ALWAYS had moisture under the valve cover cap before I ran an oil stat - two 6mph zones not long before hitting home base and or the boat ramp always made sure of that. Nothing since adding a stat. I have a sensor in the pan, and on the filter housing. Both read the same, and I've been leaving the wire on the filter mount sensor. The first large oil cooler I ran was the one with the stat located in a bypass tube on top of it. Oil temps were too high with that setup, and just yanked it after I couldn't figure out why - seemed like a great design....

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hang Time 27 (Post 4550258)

I ran Hardin Marine's for the last 4 years or so - part #625-7703 for IV's and 7704 for 5&6 blocks. Liked its simplicity, location, and the fact that it probably flows really
well with it's 3/4" NPT ports. Worked great as far as flow and thermostatic control - Oil temps stayed up through my longest 6mph zones, and for the first time ever high oil temps were never a concern no matter how hard I ran,, or for how long - sucked because I couldn't get the washered bolt up through the unit to stop dripping oil. Washer's seemed too hard. like copper instead of brass?. Even tried valve lapping compound to lap the parts together - lived with it in the end, and apparently Hardin has since changed something, not sure what, since they had a lot of complaints when they first came out, and price is lower now. I am no longer using it, partially for that reason, but more so because it puts 4 large AN fittings between my oil pan and the top of my stringer, and is a PIA to get those lines on/off to pull motor, even though only two have to be removed - just two tight in that area on my boat. A remote unit will leave only two fittings there, and at a better angle. Twin engine setup may not have that issue.

Update - for those researching this stuff - just talked to Jeff Stull at Hardin Marine, and they did in fact make changes to the unit not long after I purchased mine. I merely told him about the leaking issues I've had, and he is sending me the new improved parts - no charge. Awesome. I will reroute two of my lines to make access easier, but this good news will save me some money. Looked at my fittings, and I am using 3/4" NPT to 10AN adapters on the unit, and 10AN fittings on all my 5/8" hoses, while using only straight AN fittings at devices, and curved fittings on the hoses where needed - my oil temps have always been great since I went to this setup.

I've been having trouble getting the 3/4" nip fitting to not leak on my Hardin bulkhead. Is this the same issue that your having on the stats? I've tried new fittings with gorilla torque with no luck.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full Force (Post 4550305)

From my buddy Bill, made a couple calls this was his info on pan readings...

"Guy I know at ilmor said keep oil between 210-230 on temp on endurance engine. Temp either taken in oil pan on wet sump, or in tank on dry sump"

"Called Teague marine. Tim, guy there told me you only need 90-100 temp water and 150 oil! ��"

According to what I have read from the pros and watched on youtube, water cold and no stats with blower motors, oil over 200*

Ive been running mine cold water, no water stats, 180-210 oil temp. Oil creeps to 210 on hard runs over 5500rpm . Normally sits at 180.

A local guy had some teague 1100s or 1200s , and i believe they were set up to run cool water, and cool oil temps. I dont think teague wants any heat in the engines.

My biggest thing about oil temps, is when you start getting up there in oil temp, your valve spring temp goes up as well. The valve spring pressures drop a good amount of pressure when they get hot. Last thing you want is running along at 6000rpm, start losing spring pressure, and as a result, loss of valvetrain control.

I bet theres alot of guys who have had valvetrain separation, and blamed it on lack of spring pressure. But , were running oil temps of 250*, and didnt care because the interweb told them their synthetic oil is good for 350 degrees.

Never thought of the valve spring temps, in fact I had no clue that spring pressure dropped off with heat. I would have thought it would have to be extreme heat.