604ci build. Ready run msd or ignition box?
#1
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604ci build. Ready run msd or ignition box?
Is there a certain point of performance where you have to or need to run an ignition box? Is 3 wire ready run sufficient?
604, 4.56 bore 4.625 stroke, 91 octane 10ethanol and 36 timing locked out, flat top je, dart big m billet caps, brodix bb3xtra partial cnc t&d shaft mount 1.7, Callies mag crank, ultra rods, arp studs, dart intake, quickfuel 1050, comp elite race solid rollers, comp solid roller cam .715 .715 260 268 @ .050 .018 lash 114 lobe sep. 1st engine is dyno. 2nd one next week[ATTACH=CONFIG]565408[/ATTACH]
604, 4.56 bore 4.625 stroke, 91 octane 10ethanol and 36 timing locked out, flat top je, dart big m billet caps, brodix bb3xtra partial cnc t&d shaft mount 1.7, Callies mag crank, ultra rods, arp studs, dart intake, quickfuel 1050, comp elite race solid rollers, comp solid roller cam .715 .715 260 268 @ .050 .018 lash 114 lobe sep. 1st engine is dyno. 2nd one next week[ATTACH=CONFIG]565408[/ATTACH]
Last edited by 5050; 03-07-2017 at 06:51 PM.
#7
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If things like Start retard, pre-selectable rpm based timing maps, programmable 2d and 3d timing maps, idle stabilization, built in easily adjustable rev limiter, data logging, and stuff like that gets you excited, the Daytona Boxes are great.
Sounds like you have some nice builds there. Assuming they are going in a 38 AVS scarab, probably with bravo based drives, I think I'd be looking for an igntion system that will help the engines behave around the docks nicely. The Daytona systems will allow some great tuneability at idle.
Sounds like you have some nice builds there. Assuming they are going in a 38 AVS scarab, probably with bravo based drives, I think I'd be looking for an igntion system that will help the engines behave around the docks nicely. The Daytona systems will allow some great tuneability at idle.
#8
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I would invest in daytona boxes with adjustable timing curve before i invested in ignition boxes as you will most likely pick up tq from 4000 to 5000 from having a actual timing curve vs all in. I have seen a noticeable difference on dyno on last few motors i dynoed, fwiw, smitty
#9
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If things like Start retard, pre-selectable rpm based timing maps, programmable 2d and 3d timing maps, idle stabilization, built in easily adjustable rev limiter, data logging, and stuff like that gets you excited, the Daytona Boxes are great.
Sounds like you have some nice builds there. Assuming they are going in a 38 AVS scarab, probably with bravo based drives, I think I'd be looking for an igntion system that will help the engines behave around the docks nicely. The Daytona systems will allow some great tuneability at idle.
Sounds like you have some nice builds there. Assuming they are going in a 38 AVS scarab, probably with bravo based drives, I think I'd be looking for an igntion system that will help the engines behave around the docks nicely. The Daytona systems will allow some great tuneability at idle.
#10
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One thing i noticed was going from locked at 34, to 18 or so in nuetral idling, was your eyes no longer watered and didnt smell like raw fuel fumes . 34 works really nice in gear under load.
The way me and icdeppl setup our carb blower engines, is they idle around 18* in nuetral nice and clean. When you shift into gear, and the rpm drops below say about 700-750, idle stabilzation kicks in, and raises timing to 36 deg to keep the engine from stalling. The beauty of this, is .....
Anyone whos ever adjusted a distributor on a carbed engine, knows that when you advance the timing , the engine revs higher. The rpm picks up.
The downside, is carbs are not efi. They dont have idle air bypass, nor can they compensate fuel based on load at idle. When you crank the timing up (locked out), you often need to close the throttle blades , to keep it at an acceptable rpm. Say your shooting for 1000rpm in nuetral.
Problem is, that works great with no load. You load the engine when putting it in gear, and all of a sudden, she either dies, or drops big rpm. So you fatten it up via the mix screws, so it wont stall. Then, back in nuetral, shes fat as fuk.
Advancing the timing pulls harder on the carbs . In gear, your afr might be 12.5:1. But when you put it in neutral, it might be 10.5:1. By being able to advance timing, when its in gear, can help narrow that range, and also, minimize the rpm drop, from neutral to in gear. Engines idling at 1100 out of gear, and a sputtering 600 in gear, are a perfect example. Being able to control the timing, you may be able to get a deal that idles at 900 out of gear, and 700-750 in gear.