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Originally Posted by powermizer
(Post 4539342)
I built a couple of 509's for a friends Campion chase. I hate to say this, I have never done this before and will never do it again, long story. Both engines were built exactly the same except for rings. I had Plasma moly file to fit in one engine and total seals file to fit gapless rings in the other. After we broke them in, we gave them a wide open run. He said what's up? I have to throttle back the port engine to keep them in sink. I didn't have the heart to tell him that I had put the gapless rings in the port engine and not the other. I had built the engines the first go around with molly rings and they didn't have this issue. That is the only real test I have.
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Originally Posted by Nova Rob
(Post 4539357)
file to fit gapless?? boy am I behind the times, tonight is the first time I have heard of a gap less ring. Gonna give my Mech friends a poke. That sounds intreging except for the file fit, I'm frigen sick of fileling rings.
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I stopped using gapless rings about 10 years ago. I wasn't happy with the way they sealed on my engines. They consumed about a quart of oil every couple of hours and would pop the dipstick under boost. I was told the wrong cylinder wall finish was probably the cause but every engine I've torn apart since then that had oil consumption issues, either had GM Metric rings or Gapless rings with glazed cylinder walls. I'm not a believer in the gapless, not my cup of tea.
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I have never tried the gapless, so no comment there, but after doing 3 different BBC drag race builds my machinist got a new very expensive honing machine. I will have to say that this last build with a hone from this new machine seemed rougher than normal but this motor sealed up fast and has no blowby. I have used the same ring pack on all 3 motors. The motor I just buillt for my boat also has this diamond hone but I cannot comment yet as it only has dyno time. All of them have file fit rings and really is not a big deal if you have time and pay attention. I use the summit hand filer screwed to a bench.
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The total seal rings still need to be file fit...it's double the work
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all my parts will be here by tomorrow this is my first marine build, ring gap? is marine different from standard automotive, I run in lake Michigan cold water? never seen water temp above 160 seems low to me, do I tighten the gap or did some idiot put the wrong thermostat in her. The later seems more likely bought it cheap cheap, timing was retarded 12 degree, junk carb I got two good seasons out of it before the fuel pump filled the crank case with fuel and washed the bearings. not a hint of ridge on the bores, this boat spent most of its time tied to the dock with leaky risers.
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
(Post 4539241)
i can tell you that my 2012 honda accord calls for 0w20.i noticed it would use a quart or so in 5000 miles,for chits&giggles i tried 5w30 and it used no oil.the car stays in the heated garage most of the time so i am going to stick with the 5w30.with the 0w20 it would blow a puff of smoke upon startup,i don,t see that with the 5w30,i forgot to mention i use mobil one in all my late model cars.i am thinking honda calls for the 0w20 to help gas mileage numbers,idk.
5w-30 was invented for better fuel economy also ,,, way back when but does well with modern engines. The lighterweight oils are all about fuel economy. Read about C.A.R.B. and you will really realize what the manufacturers are up against with fuel mileage...especially Ford. |
Thickness and tension of the rings seems to be the biggest + or - horsepower 'effecter' with rings.
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I went to gapless in the street car and pan vacuum went down significantly and blow by from the vacuum pump did too. So I put them in the boat, 8 hours so far so good..
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I dont necessarily think they are bad by any means. I know lots of guys like them and use them. On the flip side, i know lots of guys who use them, and have blowby issues at high rpm, even though leakdown gauge shows 5% or less.
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