Break in oil
 

multi viscosity, straight weight ?? what are you guys using.........

thanks, for any input...:drink:

Royal Purple break in is 10W-30. Driven's original break in is 15W-50, they now offer I believe a 10W-40 and a 5W-30. My point is these 2 brands that I know of that are break in specific are a multi viscosity

i like to do the first 30 minutes of run time with a thinner oil[usually 10w30] because it flows well and it is going to get dumped before i beat on them,imo the thinner oil is good for getting into the hyd roller lifters quicker.

I have always used Rotella 15-40. Works great and is cheap

Same here it works. Some times I'll use the same oil on second engine. But new filter. Lol

I knew Rotella would come up eventually! I have no desire to get into yet another oil debate. However, Rotella is a diesel oil. It is designed for much lower RPM's than what you will be turning. Also, over the last year or two Rotella has also reduced the parts per million of zinc in their oil (in accordance with gov. standards). The comment is always Rotella is cheaper. Seriously! You just spent how many thousands on a new or rebuilt engine and your looking to save a twenty dollar bill the first time it's fired up! I really don't get it.

I think Rotella has changed again or is changing again. Worth a second look for those that use it.

Clarification please, are you saying its gooder or badder..........lol

Badder. :)

I don't think RPM designed for is anything different than a big diesel the bearing surface speed is probably about the same considering the size of the journals in a diesel..

I found some Comp Cams 10/30 ZDDP ??

Valvoline VR racing and other oils have plenty too. :)

I respectfully disagree. A well known drag race engine builder who I would rather not name as he has no "gun in this fight" told me he had been using Rotella on the dyno for a long time. Pretty much for the same reason every one on here list it. It's cheap and he would be dumping it any way after a few quick pulls. Anyway, he pulled the covers off to adjust the valves after an extended duration run and found the oil was nothing but foam. He duplicated the events again. Same thing. Changed to another traditional oil (automotive, not diesel!)...........no foam. Good enough reason for me.

And I have lost a lot of parts and motors on that purple piss

Those don't create reversion ? :lolhit:

I had good experience using the 15w40 Rotella on my build. Just my .02 cents for the thread.

Lubrication oil is so complex even outside of just RPM or engine type so this could be a lengthy thread of opinions.

Anyone have Borgie's #

royal purp,great marketing,garbage oil!

yes,it,s 1 800 gone.

why do we need tons of zddp with hyd roller cams?answer is,WE DON,T.

I don't really know how to answer this statement. Needless to say we are surely getting off topic, which is typical on any and all oil threads. No where in my post was there any mention of massive amounts of zddp, which by the way is more than zinc content. Aside from the fact that there are more than just hydraulic roller cam engines in the world zddp does more than just protect cam lobes and lifters..........it protects wear in any metal to metal contact.

you posted that rotella has lowered the zddp content in their oil,that was my reason for posting about the need for tons of zddp.all oil has zddp,racing oil not intended for production cars with cat converters can,t be used because it messes up the converter and with hyd roller lifters the oil with less zddp is still lubricating perfectly fine.on another note,how many engines use a flat tappet cam these days?not many that i am aware of.none of the major auto makers have used a flat tappet cam for years.i know one of the diesel truck engine makers still uses a flat tappet cam but i don,t remember who it is.you are correct when you say these oil threads get off track,i think that is because of all the different opinions about all the oils of today.

I know what you are saying. I was just trying to inform people that today's Rotella is not what it was a year or so ago. The oil spec's a few years ago when the API rating was "SM" was around 1200-1400 parts per million of zinc........that zinc content by the way never hurt the catalytic converter's. Anyway, the change to the current API rating "SN" dropped that to around 600-800 ppm. That's all I was referring to. Not an excessive amount of zinc. Racing oils are around 1800+ ppm. The higher zinc content is a good thing. Your engine likes it! All this being said what gets me going is the money comment. Trust me, I am on a shoe string budget with my boat. But, if I have just spent $5 or 6K on a freshen up I'm not concerned with saving $20 on the oil.

Is there break in oil that you could put 20 hours on before dumping it ?

Wheres Borgie when you need him

Driven racing has an excellent tech line you can email or call, their customer service exceeded my expectations which earned them my business.

I was under the impression that "break in" oil was less slippery, or not as good at protecting the engine from wear, it actually helps speed up wear to aid in proper break in. I'm no Borgie but if we are discussing break in oil let's hear what everyone uses and WHY you use it.

That's funny the guy at the pri said its the same oil as the continues service oil . lol they relabeled a lot of it..

Walmart supertech 20w50 when mine were fresh. After dyno, drained oil, replaced filter, went boating

i think break in oil means different things to different people,hear is my take on it.i like a thinner oil for initial start on any engine with hyd roller lifters[that is what most of the engines i build use].i like to use conventional oil vs synthetic to help seat the rings.i run the engine for roughly 15 to 20 minutes,then i drain the oil and change the filter,now the engine is ready for whatever oil i want to use in it.my reason for the short run time on the oil is the fact that the initial run will put small amounts of dirt and metal burrs from the build in the oil and end up in the filter,unless you are assembling in a surgery ward their will be some dust in the air and it will end up inside the engine.could you leave this oil in the engine and run it for 20 hours,sure but why?it the long run the oil&filter is the cheepest thing you put in the engine.this is my take on the subject,it works for me but it is not gospil,in other words if you have a different idea by all means do what works for you!

I was looking for specifics from someone who builds engines like you, thanks

Brad Penn or champion break in oil. [ATTACH=CONFIG]566269[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]566270[/ATTACH]

I don't remember exactly where I learned this information but multiple sources have info about break in oil NOT recommend for use except during break in. Some say that it has less detergents to help seat the rings? Some claim it actually causes " more wear" to actually speed up the break in process? If it was the same oil as the continues service oil then it would have detergents? I'm not claiming to be an expert, I'm simply contributing to this thread so we can all learn about break in oil. Why do many choose conventional over synthetic? Again I ask what is the point of running a different "break in oil" then what will be used normally? Mike T. Added he likes​ thinner oil, which makes logical sense to me. Hey maybe this entire break in oil is just another performance marketing strategy to make more profits! LOL!

On my motor build the builder uses Brad Penn. That's what I used to break it in, and now I run regular Brad Penn in it. Depending on how I'm going to run it depends on what viscosity I use. I'm no expert and couldn't afford to build the motor twice. I asked my builder what he wanted me to use and when to change it. How many hours before the first couple oil changes. Then I just followed his recommendations. I also didn't open it up for the first 10 hours. I just drove around at various rpms for lengths at a time. This way I verified everything was together correctly and seated before I opened it all the way up. My point is if you are using a a builder you trust. Ask them how they would do it and follow that. This way you can feel good that it was done to the experts standards

Only took 4 pages for someone to actually recommend a good break in oil

Most of it marketing if I remember brake in oil is the hot rod oil. I will check into that. Biggest thing to brake in is a flat tappet camshaft that's when I would spend the money on all the good stuff.

on break in, always been told no synthetics, I to had been using rotella, have a friend who races promod with a 903 sonny's, uses it..even I thought that was weird. I had a issue a while back pulled my procharged 509 down, after 4-5 seasons, used rotella only, found about 1" of thisk sludge in the bottom of the pan(had nothing to do with pulling down) That bothered me posted about it, but to be fair, we had run for 4 years with oil oil thermostat and oil temps always stayed very cold...did that cause this ?? never did come up with a answer for sure...

i hav seen a lot of black sludge in the bottom of the pan on engines that use racing oil with high contents of zddp,i have discovered that it is caused from the zddp breaking from suspension of the oil and laying in the bottom of the pan.these engines ran oil temps from 180 to 220 deg so it was not from running the oil to cold.

I'll bet the 'sludge' is moly. Does your oil or an additive you may use contain a lot of Moly ?

Only times I've seen this sludge is motors I've used flat tappets. The black goop you spread all over the cam lobes has a ton of moly.

It would be interesting to see what the detergent level was in these racing oils. Most racing oils have low detergent and a good slug of zinc because racing engines are torn down with some regularity. Im thinking that black sluge is solids that didn't stay in suspension due to lack of a strong detergent/dispersant package in the oil and settled to the lowest part of the motor.

What was the time on the oil before it was drained?

As of now, I still say Moly levels cause the sludge in bottom of pan.

Check out the huge amt some of these oils have, and others very little.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...=31224#p370884