I had to get thicker intake gaskets when I assembled my engine. The manifold bottomed out on the block before it touched the gaskets on the heads. Ended up with the thicker Fel Pro intake gaskets...

do you happen to know which #?

For what its worth, I would double check your intake. When we rebuilt our 502 motor last year, I had similar problem with milkshake in top end but bigger issue was water pressure problem. The intake was cracked in 3 places and also warped. Luckily the water from engine was not getting into cyls but the air pressure in manifold was pressurizing the water in the block creating high water pressure and flow issues. Ended up blowing out head gaskets as well. Caught it in time, put new intake on it and all problems went away! Still put water pressure relief in to dump excess overboard and put nice puke tank in to let motor breathe nicely and all is good now!

where was the intake cracked? I have a a relief plumbed in. My water psi gauge never shows over 15#. Im taking the reading from the front of the intake. I think im good to go just need to get it sealed up better. My builder said the intake actually fit better now that is was cut down.

I used the Felpro 12755 gaskets.. they are .120" thick as opposed to the .060" thick Felpro 1275 gaskets.


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-12755

No telling if THAT'S your issue without seeing it mocked up..
On MY engine the intake was sitting on the block and I could move it back and forth between the heads with the .060" thick Fel Pro's installed..
But my heads were milled quite a bit. Not sure exactly how much but I went from 119cc chambers to 114cc chambers on AFR heads

Cabin fever, both sides of gaskets at water ports only and on heads and intake at water ports only. You can run a bead around then spread / paint it all the way around. Around ports on heads, both sides of gaskets and intake water ports. In this order. Paint 3/8 to 1/2 wide. Heads then backside of gaskets, where passages are blocked just paint the whole area on heads and intake. stick gasket and center them on heads, pressing the gaskets lightly with finger tip to get them to stick. Now paint top of gasket while it is adhering to the heads. Lay a wide tall bead on the front and rear intake between block and intake. Don't use the cork or rubber seals. Last paint the ports on the intake and carefully stand directly over engine eyeball the holes and lay it in. Install bolts snug them down maybe 15 lbs, wait 15 min, go back start tightening to torque. Retorque next day. Then when engine is warming up ,start torque sequence again till bolts hold torque.

I lay the gaskets on card board to paint the glue on it isn't anywhere near as messy plus the gaskets won't move around allowing you to work faster

Got it.

Ill report back in a few days. Cant mess with it tonight so tomorrow will try to remove and clean/reinstall and then thursday try to test again.

I ended up taking the phucker back again. This time it was made very clear its not going back in my truck till its fixed. He called yesterday and said bring your pump and what ever else you want to check

happy to report it appears to be fixed this time. He said he didnt see anything wierd when he removed it but he did use a different intake gasket with a steel core. He typically uses em on turbo or blown motors but wasnt sure why it kept leaking. First time when it was leaking in the motor was a felpro gasket. Then he pulled intake and planed it down and out it back together with a me gasket intake gasket and it leaked outside the motor.


Either way i pumped it up and waited 30 minutes. It dropped about 1# but my thermostat hoising was seeping so i am pretty sure its fixed.

Hopefully drop it back in tomorrow morning and get it fired up tomorrow evening.

Good to hear that it's finally solved, and hopefully for many years to come. It's amazing how many brand new engines get toasted by a $5 part. Party on, Garth!