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I hope you're right.

Just a quick update. I got home from loto yesterday afternoon and finally got the motor cleaned up. Its not perfect but i can at least work on it without get oil every where. It was a f'n mess!

i drained the oil and was surprised there was very little oil left in the motor.
Checked intake bolts....all were tight.

Plan tonight is to pressurize the cooling side of the motor but im sure its gonna fail. From there im gonna try to narrow it down by verifying the oil cooler is good.

Stil hoping the motor isnt hurt to bad. Was still running fine and 40# of oil psi when shut down. Hasnt been started since. Again this all happened with in 10 minutes at 3000-3800 rpms.

The holley mechanical fuel pump is the only source i can find of the blowing milky oil out. It came from the vent tube and guessing at higher rpms it was shooting it out vs the 800 rpms i saw it spitting at idle.

Is it safe to assume the fuel pump is toast? Can theses be rebuilt? Im still paying off the last rebuild so money is tight. Ive talked to my builder and he is going to listen/check it out and give me his opinnon as well. Im scratching my head trying to figure out if there is anything i could have done to cause this?

I think the oil level climbed until the fuel pump drive was underwater (oil?) pump probably ok. stop tightening the intake bolts and take them off...also, with a crossover, you can put it on 1 side of block with other end hanging in space. then bolt s small pieces of wood or steel over intake water ports in head and pressure test 1 side at a time. so if whole engine fails, which I hope it does (otherwise there is nothing wrong and this milkshake is a figment of your imagination) you can pressure test 1 side, then the other to see which head or gasket is the problem. water-oil mix is not a very good lubricant. but it is still a lubricant. odds are your bottom end survived.

Pulled the main water hose from the cooler to the cross over and plugged it. Plugged both water lines from the crossover to each exhaust manifold as well. I removed the fitting for the water temp sensor and installed a hosebarb fitting there. I can not pump up any pressure at all, none. I figured id at least get something that would bleed off fairly quick. Am i doing something wrong?

besides trying to pressure test something that won't hold pressure? what do you mean pump? like with a bicycle pump? you need compressed air. not to see pressure, but to hear where it is blowing out.

I rented one of the radiator testers. Yea its basically a bicycle pump with a gauge. Its how i tested my last engine that milkshaked.

You saying i should use compressed air through it? I dont have a regulator on my compressor so running 100# of air psi.

Don't worry. It ain't gonna hold 5 psi. Let alone 100. The rig I built has a tubeless tire valve and a pressure gauge in it. I clamped it to the small hose in the center of the bypass. Using it to try to fix a cracked 502 I bought cheap. You could go buy a pressure gauge from welding supply or pool place. Get an adapter and screw it into a temp gauge fitting. But I think blow air in. Listen for where it comes out. And get the intake off. There is nothing you are gonna hurt with 50 psi. The draw pumps usually run 30 anyway. Shut compressor off when you have 50 on the gauge. You don't wanna try to hear over a compressor running anyway.