Does the USCG require these as oem on all boats? I wonder how many engines have been yanked and rebuilt because of these little buggers.

Just pulled a stuck anti-siphon valve about an hr ago. 1988 Wellcraft with single small block. Complained of running fine sometimes and not others. Had to check fuel sender anyway (gauge sometimes reads) and figured what the hell, old boat, and it's right next to the sender on this boat. Ball was stuck a c-hair (yes, a measurement here ) open and wouldn't open further nor close shut. Rubber fuel line is in horrible shape too, so good thing boat came in now vs later.

This one has the typical aluminum bodied (as I showed photo earlier) .

I have to pull the pickups it's has more crap in it so I will probably suck the tank out clean everything replace intake hoses and screens

How do you know the pick up's have crap in them ? Do they have screen filters attached ? I would doubt most boats have them, but I have only pulled several and they didn't have'm.

As far as Baja Rooster and the valves....how about drilling them out so spring and ball come out....and then re-install. This makes them look like they are present

Cause last week when I took the check valve off it had a bunch of crap in it. I blew it out checked the actuation of it very smooth I put a small hand air pump on tank pick up blew some air into it and reassembled it all ran fine for about a week last night started acting up again pulled valve off again little crap in it cleaned it blew back in tank again runs fine again. So I am assuming crap in tank is clogging up pick up screen and back blowing it is cleaning it up a bit till it gets crudy again. I figured the only way **** like little flies getting into tank is through tank vent.

$10 you don't have the screen and should drill out threaded side of valve fitting so ball/spring come out and reinstall empt fitting. Or just install normal fitting. Water separator/filter will trap the smegma.

PS: maybe you should take that bet.

This is a 100 % prime example why you test with a remote outboard fuel tank and primer bulb in line with fresh gas and new fuel line hook at the remote fuel tank side to the first fuel inlet engine side. Been posting this test for years up here. It will tell you if the issues are on the boat side or the engine. Working on boats a lot of times testing is for ruling out what the problem is NOT. Process of elimination. Total cost for this set up is 100 bucks and you use this same set up when winterizing your boat for proper fuel systems lay up using the soup mix.

All boaters should buy this outboard remote tank / fuel line set up and store it in a clean dry place when not in use. Do not keep fuel in it - use that for you lawn mower or whatever. Always use fresh gas that day when you are ready to test with the remote fuel tank set up. RVP plays a huge part in fuel and how well your engine runs depending on the season. Fuel RVP at the gas pumps can change up to 7 times per year depending on your location.

My check valve went missing and I replaced it with a 1/2" barb and fresh line.

NCD, I've got this exact same problem and it sounds like I need to pull my pickups and check the valve and if there is a clogged sock on the end of the pick ups. My question is, what all is involved in pulling the pickups? Is it difficult? Do I need to have any new seals or gaskets ready to reinstall or does it pretty much go back together without any of that? any advice you can provide of what I'm going to see or get into would be appreciated. I'm headed to the marina to check it out tomorrow morning. oh, 1998 Fountain with carb hp 500s. thx, Jay.

Every boat is different I would bring some quality rtv that's chemical resistant at the very least. That way if you need to reseal it temporary you can. the boat i was working on didn't have a screen on the one side pick up and that was the side I was having issues. I had to fabricate new screens for both sides and clean out the tank.